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2023 Cahors
Clos La Coutale
Clos Coutale
If the South is France’s best-known region—apart from Paris—looming large in many of our French fantasies, the Southwest lies at the other end of the spectrum, relatively untravelled compared to its Côte d’Azur counterparts. And yet, it is a swath of the country teeming with natural beauty, from the Pyrenees to the Dordogne, and is also home to some incredible wines delivering unrivaled value.
One of our perennial contenders for “Value of the Year,” Clos La Coutale’s Cahors combines four parts Malbec with one part Merlot—a blend that reminds you Bordeaux isn’t too far away. If you peek inside the wine fridges and cellars of most KLWM staff, you will no doubt find this cuvée because it does so many things at once. Succulent and soulful, it shows a brilliant balance of fruit, earth, and spice; depth and approachability; country rusticity and refinement. And you will be very happy drinking it now or in twenty years. A perfect wine for $18?
The only way I can think of this getting any better is if you open it alongside the seared duck breast with fall fruit and Banyuls sauce Georgeanne Brennan dreamed up for our September Adventures Wine Club. A celebration of quintessential Southwest ingredients, this pairing makes for an easy and delicious fall feast. Of course, it’s versatile enough to pour with so many other dishes, too, from cassoulet to pork chops and root vegetables—or just on its own!
—Tom Wolf
| Wine Type: | red |
| Vintage: | 2023 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | 80% Malbec, 20% Merlot |
| Appellation: | Cahors |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Southwest |
| Producer: | Clos La Coutale |
| Winemaker: | Philippe Bernède |
| Vineyard: | 60 ha |
| Soil: | Gravel, Limestone, Clay |
| Aging: | Aged in foudre and 1-2 years old barrels from Bordeaux grand cru for one year before bottling |
| Farming: | Traditional |
| Alcohol: | 13.5% |
More from this Producer or Region
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La Grave is one of the rare Cahors to consist exclusively of the native Malbec. Without any Merlot to soften it, this Cahors is decidedly old-fashioned.
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About The Producer
Clos La Coutale
Today, Cahors’ jack-of-all-trades and Renaissance man, Philippe Bernède, continues the family tradition with both heart and ingenuity. Philippe’s vines rest upon the gentle slopes that rise up from the Lot River. Over the years, Philippe has tinkered with the house blend to achieve a greater equilibrium. Today, the blend consists of 80% Malbec and 20% Merlot, creating an intense wine that juggles elegant rusticity with everyday drinkability. Coutale has quite a record of age-worthiness as well and Philippe is not afraid to pull out older vintages of his wines alongside much more expensive Bordeaux. They stand up pretty well! Nothing beats bécasse (woodcock) or cassoulet with an old Coutale, but a simple steak fits the bill just fine.
About The Region
Southwest
Tucked away beneath Bordeaux and buffeted by the Pyrenees to the south, this expansive region of France, commonly known as the Southwest, is home to a diverse number of viticulture and gastronomic traditions as well as cultures. Though Cahors might be the most well known (and easiest to pronounce) appellation from the Southwest, the importance and influence of French Basque culture cannot be underestimated. Irouléguy, the primary appellation of the Basque region of France produces full-bodied, hearty red wines, produced from Tannat grape (known for its tannic qualities). Dry whites from Irouléguy are also produced from Petit and Gros Manseng. Northeast of Irouléguy is the sweet wine-producing appellation of Jurançon. These moelleux wines made from Petit and Gros Manseng have a storied history in France, from being the first wine region to have a vineyard classification, which dates back to the 154th century, to being preferred wine of royalty dating back to the 16th century as well as the French poet Colette.
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Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch