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2020 Campania Coda di Volpe “Kisteis”

Terre del Vescovo
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Coda di Volpe, a variety named for the foxtail-like shape of its clusters, is the Campanians’ daily drinking white. If the local reds are dense and contemplative, Coda is quite the opposite—in Giuseppa’s words, “this is the wine for drinking in summer on the Amalfi Coast.” At home, savor its breezy aromatics—lemon, flowers, and fresh-picked herbs—alongside a bowl of green olives or another regional specialty, mozzarella di bufala.

Anthony Lynch


Technical Information
Wine Type: white
Vintage: 2020
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Coda di Volpe
Appellation: IGP Campania
Country: Italy
Region: Campania
Producer: Terre del Vescovo
Winemaker: Giuseppa Molettieri
Vineyard: Planted in 2015
Soil: Clay, Limestone
Farming: Sustainable
Alcohol: 12%

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About The Region

Campania

map of Campania

Campania enjoys an ancient history as a fine wine producer—in fact, its precious nectars were highly coveted in ancient Rome and received accolades from many important writers of the era, including Pliny the Elder. While winemaking here dates back to the first Greek settlers to colonize the countryside, Campania is now enjoying a wine renaissance, as small farmers are relying less and less on the co-ops that dominated the scene for decades and increasingly turning to estate-bottling to make a living and capture the richness their territory has to offer.

The Mediterranean coastline, with bustling Napoli and towering Vesuvio as its focal point, is home to a number of light, simple wines from indigenous grape varieties, often planted in sandy volcanic soils. But Campania’s viticultural heartland lies further inland, in the Irpinia region around Avellino: this mountainous terrain offers altitude and limestone soils where the noble Aglianico, Fiano, and Greco are capable of producing what are arguably some of southern Italy’s most complex, characterful, and often age-worthy reds and whites.

The increasing number of artisanal producers bottling their own wine caught our eye several years ago, and today we count one Campanian grower among our ranks. With its deep winemaking traditions—not to mention world-famous specialties like mozzarella di bufala and pizza napoletana—we will undoubtedly return soon.

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Where the newsletter started

Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch

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