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2020 Mâcon-Fuissé “Les Tâches”

Domaine Robert-Denogent
Discount Eligible $52.00
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It seems that American bakeries are using more and more almond—frangipane and marzipan—which, in my opinion, is a very welcome development. Almond croissants are now ubiquitous. Fruit tarts with frangipane filling, and even galettes des rois can be found behind the glass case with more regularity.
     I’ve tried my hand at the last, using David Lebovitz’s recipe as inspiration. The difference in his is that he adds orange zest to the almond filling, giving a subtle citrus freshness to the galette’s otherwise rich core.
     The Roberts’ Mâcon-Fuissé reminds me of that brilliant almond-tang infusion, only if you substitute lemon or lime zest for orange. This wine possesses a regal richness, but is balanced by mouthwatering citrus that is woven throughout.

Tom Wolf


Technical Information
Wine Type: white
Vintage: 2020
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Chardonnay
Appellation: Mâcon-Fuissé
Country: France
Region: Burgundy
Producer: Domaine Robert-Denogent
Vineyard: 15 years, .27 ha
Soil: Limestone
Farming: Lutte Raisonnée
Alcohol: 14%

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About The Region

Burgundy

map of Burgundy

In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.

Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.

To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.

Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.

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Sampler Includes:

2022 Vin de France Blanc Melon de Bourgogne  $32
Possibly the best rendition of Melon de Bourgogne in Burgundy, this is crisp, lively, and refreshing—a perfect match for oysters or lightly prepared seafood.

2021 Bourgogne Blanc  $45

The fruit in this blanc comes from the northern Mâconnais, which explains its textbook orchard fruit and crystalline finish. To relate to this wine, Valentin suggests you grab a barstool, a whole saucisson, and a hunk of chèvre, and post yourself at the zinc countertop of a classic French bistro for a tête-à-tête.

2020 Vézelay Blanc “La Châtelaine”  $38
La Châtelaine highlights what may be the best terroir of Vézelay and why this little appellation is on the map in the first place. With a style that hews more closely to Chablis than to Côte d’Or, La Châtelaine shows off a mouth-coating, deep, zesty, and mineral side.

2022 Bourgogne Rouge “L’Ermitage”  $42
Blending Pinot Noir with a little of the local red grape César results in a rouge unlike any other in Burgundy today. The César adds an element of dense, dark fruit and tannic structure, while the fresh, bright, and lively Pinot Noir provides fluidity and high-toned aromatics.

2022 Juliénas  $35

Sourced from an organically farmed vineyard on granite soil, this is textbook cru Beaujolais: very aromatic with loads of fresh Gamay fruit, it flows over the palate with a buoyancy that simply makes it hard to resist.

2022 Bourgogne Rouge “Champs Cadet”  $42
A gorgeous, exuberant, and versatile red Burgundy, evoking red berries, a hint of black tea, and spices.

Normally $234.00
SPECIAL SAMPLER PRICE $187.00
(a 20% discount)

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Inspiring Thirst

I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.

Inspiring Thirst, page 171