Mostly known and beloved for its white wines, the Savoie is also home to a noteworthy red grape called Mondeuse. Likely a relative of Syrah, Mondeuse thrives along the impossibly steep and scree-laden slopes of the pre-Alps, just down the road from France’s renowned ski mountains. For seventy years, the Quenards’ vines for this cuvée have clung to this stony rubble, enjoying great health and complete ripening courtesy of the slope’s quick draining, sunny southern exposure, and cool Alpine air currents.
      Looking up at the sharp incline and the rocky soil, you might wonder how third-generation Guillaume Quenard is able to harvest grapes here, much less tend to them all summer. Somehow, he manages to do so, all manually, before aging the wine for a year in old, neutral foudres before bottling. The resulting fine-grained rouge shows some northern Rhône Syrah qualities—an irresistibly savory, peppery hint and note of black olive—but it also delivers a tart brightness and impressive acidity that make it extremely versatile at table. Pour this beautiful Mondeuse alongside a tender steak, pasta topped with grilled mushrooms, or Chris Lee’s fried rabbit with semolina and herbs for a wonderful late-summer or early-fall feast.

You can find Chris Lee’s recipe here.