2019 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore “Capovolto”La Marca di San Michele
Italy | Le Marche
$27
Producers
Red Burgundy is inextricably linked to the grape that once grew wild in its forests, later tamed and propagated by Cistercian monks in the middle ages: the legendary and noble Pinot Noir. However, on the far northern tip of Burgundy, in the pastoral hills around Vézelay, there remain a few scattered acres of another red grape, curiously referred to as “César” by the locals. Legend has it that this grape was first introduced to this particular area when Caesar himself marched his soldiers there to face down and conquer the Gauls once and for all at the battle of Alésia. After a long siege and brutal battles, Caesar went home triumphant, with the Gallic leader Vercingetorix in a cage as his prize. He left behind not only fields of the red grape we call César today, but also a local populace with newly learned skills of vine-growing and winemaking.
While the legend may seem tall, recent DNA testing has shown that this far-away-from-home grape is a cousin to Barbera from Piedmont in Italy. Only a few small pockets of it remain in northern Burgundy, where it is blended with Pinot Noir. Fortunately for us, La Cadette is one of those lucky few who give us a chance to sip this wonderfully rustic and brambly blend with hints of ancient history and intrigue.
The Ermitage parcel in Vézelay, co-planted with both César and Pinot Noir, offers an unexpected marriage that works surprisingly well. The César adds an element of dense, dark fruit and tannic structure, while the fresh, bright, and lively Pinot Noir provides fluidity and high-toned aromatics. The result is a beautiful Cadette rouge with a bit more structure and plenty of pleasure.
—Chris Santini
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2020 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | 85% Pinot Noir, 15% César |
Appellation: | Bourgogne |
Country: | France |
Region: | Burgundy |
Producer: | Domaine de la Cadette |
Winemaker: | Valentin Montanet |
Vineyard: | 25 years, 13.5 ha total |
Soil: | Limestone, White Marl |
Aging: | Raised in barrel for 9 months |
Farming: | Organic (certified) |
Alcohol: | 14.2% |
Domaine de la Cadette France | Burgundy | Bourgogne
Domaine de la Cadette France | Burgundy | Vézelay
Domaine de la Cadette France | Burgundy | Vézelay
La Soeur Cadette France | Burgundy | Bourgogne
La Soeur Cadette France | Beaujolais | Juliénas
La Soeur Cadette France | Burgundy | Bourgogne
In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.
Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.
To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.
Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.
Domaine Roland Lavantureux France | Burgundy | Chablis
Domaine Robert Chevillon France | Burgundy | Nuits-Saint-Georges
Comtesse de Chérisey France | Burgundy | Meursault
Domaine Robert Chevillon France | Burgundy | Nuits-Saint-Georges
Domaine Lucien Boillot et Fils France | Burgundy | Nuits-Saint-Georges
Domaine Taupenot-Merme France | Burgundy | Gevrey-Chambertin
Roland Lavantureux France | Burgundy | Chablis
Domaine Boillot France | Burgundy | Gevrey-Chambertin
Domaine Robert-Denogent France | Burgundy | Mâcon-Fuissé
Domaine Lucien Boillot & Fils France | Burgundy | Volnay
Régis Bouvier France | Burgundy | Marsannay
Domaine de la Cadette France | Burgundy | Vézelay
For the wines that I buy I insist that the winemaker leave them whole, intact. I go into the cellars now and select specific barrels or cuvées, and I request that they be bottled without stripping them with filters or other devices. This means that many of our wines will arrive with a smudge of sediment and will throw a more important deposit as time goes by, It also means the wine will taste better.
Drinking distilled spirits, beer, coolers, wine and other alcoholic beverages may increase cancer risk, and, during pregnancy, can cause birth defects. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/alcohol
Many food and beverage cans have linings containing bisphenol A (BPA), a chemical known to cause harm to the female reproductive system. Jar lids and bottle caps may also contain BPA. You can be exposed to BPA when you consume foods or beverages packaged in these containers. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/bpa