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2020 Côtes du Jura Pinot Noir “Cuvée 909”

François Rousset-Martin
Discount Eligible $65.00
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Blink and you might miss Nevy-sur-Seille, a village tucked away in the Vallée des Reculées, where François Rousset-Martin makes his wine. Albeit discreet, this part of the Jura resembles something of the American West of yore—undiscovered and wild, and rich in natural habitat. The backdrop here is dramatic: Massive limestone and marl cliffs perched atop pedestals of sloping vineyards, and in the foreground, flocks of livestock grazing and snoozing the day away. Traditionally a mixed farming region, the Jura is witnessing a new generation focused exclusively on winemaking, this is the case for François Rousset who first caught the wine-bug growing up in Burgundy, where his father was a microbiologist for the Hospices de Beaune.
     His Pinot Noir vineyard is located in the commune of Menétru-le-Vignoble, a tiny part of the appellation which is still being discovered. The 909 refers to the year in which a handful of Jurassian monks left the abbey of Baume-les-Messieurs to found the Cluny Abbey. This off-the-beaten-path Pinot Noir is bursting with wild fruit that coats the palate, finishing with a flourish of maraschino cherry and pomegranate.


Technical Information
Wine Type: red
Vintage: 2020
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Pinot Noir
Country: France
Region: Jura
Producer: François Rousset-Martin
Vineyard: .45 ha, Planted in 1998
Soil: Clay, Limestone
Farming: Organic (practicing)
Alcohol: 13.5%

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About The Region

Jura

map of Jura

The Jura wine world is a fascinating, mysterious, and at times confusing one. The region’s recent surge in popularity on American wine lists lies in contrast with how strange its wines come across to the uninitiated, with many of its indigenous production methods and quirky winemakers requiring more than an introduction for one to fully savor their virtues. We firmly believe, however, that the pleasure at stake is well worth a slight detour to study the wild world of Jura.

Jura tradition calls for aging whites sous voile, or under a fine “veil” of yeast that grows over wine in barrel that has not been topped-off (non ouillé) to compensate for evaporation. The voile effectively slows the process of oxidation, while chemical reactions between these microorganisms and the wine below give rise to a highly distinctive and complex set of aromas. Often hinting at walnuts, beeswax, oriental spices, cheese rind, and brine, wines aged sous voile can come as a shock to the unhabituated palate. Their textural and aromatic singularity naturally sets them in a category of their own at table, perhaps the best setting in which to gain an appreciation for such wines.

Many Jura producers also produce more conventional whites in an ouillé, or topped-off style, as is practiced in Burgundy–or for that matter, in essentially all the white wines we are accustomed to. This method preserves fresh fruit flavors without the rather rustic, often funky oxidative notes typical of wines aged sous voile.

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Vintage Chart

Trust the great winemakers, trust the great vineyards. Your wine merchant might even be trustworthy. In the long run, that vintage strip may be the least important guide to quality on your bottle of wine.—Kermit Lynch