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Pierre Boillot, fils of Lucien, is the epitome of a Burgundian classicist. He doesn’t turn to makeup—excessive ripeness or oak—to enhance his gorgeous old-vine Pinot Noir. Rather, he relies on his sixty-year-old vines and veteran judgment regarding when to harvest and how long to ferment and age the wine in his cellar. The resulting Volnay is both elegant and exuberant, defined by notes of succulent, impeccably ripe red fruit and blood orange. Decant this beauty for an hour to enjoy it today, or stash it away in a cool space for five years.

Tom Wolf


Technical Information
Wine Type: red
Vintage: 2019
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Pinot Noir
Appellation: Volnay
Country: France
Region: Burgundy
Producer: Domaine Lucien Boillot et Fils
Winemaker: Pierre Boillot
Vineyard: Planted in 1958, .44 ha
Soil: Clay, limestone
Aging: Aged for 16 to 18 months depending on the vintage
Farming: Lutte Raisonnée
Alcohol: 13.5%

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About The Region

Burgundy

map of Burgundy

In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.

Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.

To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.

Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.

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Where the newsletter started

Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch

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