Notify me
2018 Bourgogne Rouge “Garance”
Domaine Montanet-Thoden
Northwestern Burgundy, near Chablis and Vézelay, is far better known for its white wines than its reds. There are no grands crus for Pinot Noir in these parts, but Valentin Montanet is proving, through reds like his Garance, that these terroirs are capable of producing exceptional Bourgogne rouge. You might think that Vézelay’s climate—cooler than the Côte d’Or’s—would turn out lean, restrained Pinots, but Valentin’s red Burgundies are anything but: high-toned and juicy red fruit abound in this bottle. What you taste is undeniably Pinot Noir (and a sneakily serious one at that), but it also evokes the joie de vivre more commonly associated with Beaujolais, Burgundy’s neighbor to the south. How did Valentin manage to craft such a generous, medium-bodied, and fun red this far north? To start, the vines that contribute to this bottling mostly face south, meaning they receive maximum sunlight. Second, Valentin vinified two batches of red wine, which he blended to make this cuvée. For one batch, he fermented his grapes without their stems. For the other, he did not, following the whole-cluster fermentation technique that today is more associated with Beaujolais than with Burgundy. Hence the soupçon of festive gulpability, as if to say to its peers, “Brooding Burgundies, beware: Fun will be had here!”
—Tom Wolf
| Wine Type: | red |
| Vintage: | 2018 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Pinot Noir |
| Appellation: | Bourgogne |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Burgundy |
| Producer: | Domaine Montanet-Thoden |
| Winemaker: | Catherine & Valentin Montanet |
| Vineyard: | Planted mid-90s, early 2000s, 2 ha. |
| Soil: | Clay, Limestone |
| Aging: | Elevage 80% in barrique, 20% in feuillette; no new wood |
| Farming: | Organic (certified) |
| Alcohol: | 13.5% |
More from this Producer or Region
2023 Bourgogne Rouge “Garance”
France | Burgundy
A sneakily serious Pinot Noir.
2023 Marsannay Rouge “Les Longeroies”
France | Burgundy
This single-vineyard Pinot Noir is what drinking great Burgundy is all about.
2023 Bourgogne Vézelay Blanc “Galerne”
France | Burgundy
Valentin’s Galerne blanc is a divine rendition of pure, chiseled Chardonnay.
2023 Morey Saint Denis “En la Rue de Vergy”
France | Burgundy
The wine is firmly structured and robust, with dark, plump fruit that tastes fresh and utterly drinkable.
2023 Côte de Nuits-Villages
France | Burgundy
Even in Burgundy you rarely find such an elegant balance.
2022 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru “Les Vaucrains”
France | Burgundy
Classic Nuits, the most structured wine in their book, legendary ager.
2021 Auxey Duresses Rouge 1er Cru
France | Burgundy
A blend of two premier cru vineyards, Les Duresses and Les Grands Champs, this bottling has a gorgeous nose with cherry, earthiness, and a faint smokiness.
2017 Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru “La Genelotte”
France | Burgundy
**Extremely limited quantities, maximum one bottle per purchase.**
2023 Chablis 1er Cru “Beauroy”
France | Burgundy
The premier cru Beauroy is a round, ample expression of Chablis from a south-facing parcel. Silky and suave on the palate, it finishes with a whisper of salinity.
2022 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru “Les Chaignots”
France | Burgundy
From the Vosne side of the village, the silkiest number in the lineup.
About The Producer
Domaine Montanet-Thoden
About The Region
Burgundy
In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.
Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.
To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.
Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.
More from Burgundy or France
2022 Vin de France Blanc Melon de Bourgogne
La Soeur Cadette France | Burgundy
2023 Santenay Blanc 1er Cru “Le Beaurepaire”
Jean-Marc Vincent France | Burgundy
2023 Chablis “Vauprin”
Roland Lavantureux France | Burgundy
2021 Beaune 1er Cru “Les Montrevenots”
Gachot-Monot France | Burgundy
1983 Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru
Domaine Taupenot-Merme France | Burgundy
2023 Chablis 1er Cru “Beauroy”
Roland Lavantureux France | Burgundy
2023 Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise Rouge “La Fortune”
Domaine De Villaine France | Burgundy
2023 Givry Rouge 1er Cru “Clos du Cras Long”
Domaine François Lumpp France | Burgundy
2022 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain
Domaine Robert Chevillon France | Burgundy
2018 Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru
Domaine Taupenot-Merme France | Burgundy
2022 Givry Blanc “Teppe de Chenèves”
Domaine François Lumpp France | Burgundy
2023 Savigny-Lès-Beaune 1er Cru “Les Jarrons”
Domaine Pierre Guillemot France | Burgundy
2022 Vin de France Blanc Melon de Bourgogne
La Soeur Cadette France | Burgundy
2023 Santenay Blanc 1er Cru “Le Beaurepaire”
Jean-Marc Vincent France | Burgundy
2023 Chablis “Vauprin”
Roland Lavantureux France | Burgundy
2021 Beaune 1er Cru “Les Montrevenots”
Gachot-Monot France | Burgundy
1983 Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru
Domaine Taupenot-Merme France | Burgundy
2023 Chablis 1er Cru “Beauroy”
Roland Lavantureux France | Burgundy
2023 Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise Rouge “La Fortune”
Domaine De Villaine France | Burgundy
2023 Givry Rouge 1er Cru “Clos du Cras Long”
Domaine François Lumpp France | Burgundy
2022 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain
Domaine Robert Chevillon France | Burgundy
2018 Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru
Domaine Taupenot-Merme France | Burgundy
2022 Givry Blanc “Teppe de Chenèves”
Domaine François Lumpp France | Burgundy
2023 Savigny-Lès-Beaune 1er Cru “Les Jarrons”
Domaine Pierre Guillemot France | Burgundy
Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch