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2017 Mâcon-Villages
Henri Perrusset
Enjoying regional Bourguignon specialties like jambon persillé, escargots, and cuisses de grenouilles—prepared with loads of garlic, parsley, and, of course, butter—requires cleansing white wines with grippy texture to keep your palate refreshed. Henri ferments and ages his Mâcon-Villages in giant, stainless-steel tanks to accentuate acidity and showcase the chalky quartz and fossil–laden soils where his Chardonnay vines grow. Dishes like snails, frogs’ legs, and homemade terrine are best left to the pros, but a garlicky and briny linguine with clams or anchovies shouldn’t be too hard to throw together. Plus, a bottle of Perrusset will wash it down as cleanly as a fancier-priced Chablis.
—Jane Berg
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2017 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Chardonnay |
Appellation: | Mâcon-Villages |
Country: | France |
Region: | Burgundy |
Producer: | Henri Perrusset |
Winemaker: | Henri Perrusset |
Vineyard: | 15-30 years, 6.5 ha |
Soil: | Clay, Limestone |
Aging: | Wines age on their lees for 8-10 months in stainless steel cuves before bottling |
Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
Alcohol: | 13% |
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About The Producer
Henri Perrusset
About The Region
Burgundy
In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.
Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.
To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.
Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.
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Where the newsletter started

Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch