2016 Vouvray “Le Portail”Champalou
France | Loire
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At a recent family reunion, Kermit and I poured our guests Perrusset’s humble Mâcon-Villages before moving on to a 2002 premier cru Chablis from Domaine Raveneau. The next day, a relative—who enjoys the occasional glass of wine but is more of a beer drinker—reached out to order a few bottles. “Got any more of that Chablis?” he wrote. “And I’ll take a couple bottles of that other Chardonnay, too.”
I replied that, sadly, we had sold out of the former fifteen years ago, but I’d gladly send him some Mâcon—which, by the way, costs less per case than the Raveneau does per bottle. The experience perfectly summarized Perrusset’s knack for crafting all-purpose, crowd-pleasing Chardonnays at a good price. No oak; generous citrus and stone fruit on the palate; a clean, minerally finish—what more could one ask for in a white wine?
|Vineyard:||15-30 years, 6.5 ha|
|Aging:||Wines age on their lees for 8-10 months in stainless steel cuves before bottling|
Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
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