2022 ChevernyDomaine du Salvard
France | Loire
$22
Producers
Let’s embrace the elephant in the room—that it wouldn’t be unusual for someone to pass over this bottle in favor of Burgundy. It would, however, be an oversight and here’s why: Edi Kante is a brilliant pioneer of sustainable wines whose holdings in Carco boast some of the most impressive limestone soils and seaside microclimates in our portfolio. Part of Kante’s selezione wines, this release of Pinot Nero is only produced in exceptional years and aged in French oak barrels. Considering the variety and treatment, it is not without parallels to Burgundian counterparts, yet is decidedly unique. Here, heady aromatics of pomegranate and hibiscus meet a soft rush of tannins and vibrant saline finish. Though young Pinot Neros can exhibit austerity, Kante has cellar-aged this bottle before release. It is superb beside smokey meats and sharp cheeses or comforting Madeira-glazed mushrooms with roasted chicken. Truly a bottle not to be missed.
—Allyson Noman
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2016 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Pinot Nero |
Appellation: | Venezia Giulia |
Country: | Italy |
Region: | Friuli |
Producer: | Edi Kante |
Winemaker: | Edi Kante |
Vineyard: | 25 years average, 1.5 ha |
Soil: | Limestone |
Aging: | Aged for 36 months in 250L French oak barrels (10% new) |
Farming: | Sustainable |
Alcohol: | 12% |
Edi Kante Italy | Friuli | Venezia Giulia
Edi Kante Italy | Friuli | Venezia Giulia
Edi Kante Italy | Friuli | Venezia Giulia
Edi Kante Italy | Friuli | Venezia Giulia
Edi Kante Italy | Friuli | Venezia Giulia
Edi Kante Italy | Friuli | Venezia Giulia
Friuli may be forever tied to its bland, acidic Pinot Grigios, which at one point saturated the export market, but a deeper look reveals a captivating array of unique grape-growing sites, distinctive indigenous varieties, and passionate small growers keen on preserving a rich tradition of winemaking.
Here in Italy’s northeast corner, the region is shared between the Julian Alps in the north and plains leading to the Adriatic Sea in the south, bound by the Veneto to the west and Slovenia to the east. While it is one of the wettest regions of Italy—and all of Europe, for that matter—Friuli benefits from the push-and-pull of cool air currents from the mountains meeting warmer breezes from the Adriatic. A crescent-shaped slice of foothills, where both play a role, tends to produce the region’s finest wines.
Nothing is more emblematic to Friulian wine than a crisp, peachy Ribolla Gialla served with thinly sliced prosciutto San Daniele, a local specialty. And yet, this only begins to tell the story: high-acid, mineral-driven whites from a number of local varieties including Tocai Friulano, Pinot Grigio, and Malvasia range from light and crisp to powerful and age-worthy, complementing Adriatic shellfish, hearty mountain cheeses, and everything in between. Native reds like Schioppettino, Terrano, and Refosco all have something unique to say, while there has even been significant success with French varieties like Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Merlot, all long established in the region.
Friuli’s diversity is its strength, and it keeps us coming back for more. In fact, Kermit imported one of the region’s first organic growers toward the start of his career; our more recent collaboration with producers like Vignai da Duline is a testament to the enormous potential when devoted artisans put their hearts into Friuli’s fascinating terroir.
Vignai da Duline Italy | Friuli | Delle Venezie
Vignai da Duline Italy | Friuli | Venezia Giulia
Edi Kante Italy | Friuli | Venezia Giulia
Vignai da Duline Italy | Friuli | Grave
Edi Kante Italy | Friuli | Venezia Giulia
Vignai da Duline Italy | Friuli | Friuli Colli Orientali
Vignai da Duline Italy | Friuli | Venezia Giulia
Vignai da Duline Italy | Friuli | Delle Venezie
Edi Kante Italy | Friuli | Venezia Giulia
Vignai da Duline Italy | Friuli | Friuli Colli Orientali
Edi Kante Italy | Friuli | Venezia Giulia
Vignai da Duline Italy | Friuli | Friuli Colli Orientali
When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:
1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.
Inspiring Thirst, page 174
Drinking distilled spirits, beer, coolers, wine and other alcoholic beverages may increase cancer risk, and, during pregnancy, can cause birth defects. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/alcohol
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