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2014 Bourgogne Aligoté

Domaine Arnaud Ente

2014 Bourgogne Aligoté Domaine Arnaud Ente - Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant
Arnaud Ente in Meursault makes what I think is the best Aligoté in Burgundy. I’ve always wondered how he does it. I thought for a while it might be relatively low yields, or maybe the fact that he ages it in demi-muids, getting the technical advantages of oak without the flavor. I know it isn’t his terroir, as these vines are planted in an average plot on the wrong side of the nationale. The reason, I now believe, is very simple: Arnaud and his wife Marie-Odile only work three hectares of vines, and they treat them all as if they were grand cru. As is always the case with great wine, the quality of the grapes makes the difference.
    Ente’s Aligoté is ethereal, perfumed, and extremely elegant. It also manages to be soft and round, with Aligoté’s trademark acidity fully tamed. Touch is the word that comes to mind most often–the palate is caressed; the mixture of creamy and bright is expertly achieved. Awesome minerality on the finish is another reliable trademark. Tasting this without context you would be thinking really high quality white Burgundy, likely premier cru. Ente’s Aligoté is a real over-achiever, and one of the hidden gems in his range of wines. It is a rare treat to be able to offer a few cases of this more widely than usual. –Dixon Brooke
$75.00
Vintage: 2014
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Aligoté
Appellation: Meursault
Country: France
Region: Burgundy
Producer: Domaine Arnaud Ente
Winemaker: Arnaud Ente
Vineyard: Planted in 1938, .35 ha
Soil: Sand, Clay
Aging: Raised in demi-muids
Farming: Lutte Raisonnée
Alcohol: 13%

More from this Producer or Region

About Burgundy

In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.

Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.

To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.

Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.

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Great winemakers, great terroirs, there is never any hurry. And I no longer buy into this idea of “peak” maturity. Great winemakers, great terroirs, their wines offer different pleasures at different ages.

Inspiring Thirst, page 312

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