2014 Bourgogne Aligoté

Arnaud Ente in Meursault makes what I think is the best Aligoté in Burgundy. I’ve always wondered how he does it. I thought for a while it might be relatively low yields, or maybe the fact that he ages it in demi-muids, getting the technical advantages of oak without the flavor. I know it isn’t his terroir, as these vines are planted in an average plot on the wrong side of the nationale. The reason, I now believe, is very simple: Arnaud and his wife Marie-Odile only work three hectares of vines, and they treat them all as if they were grand cru. As is always the case with great wine, the quality of the grapes makes the difference.
    Ente’s Aligoté is ethereal, perfumed, and extremely elegant. It also manages to be soft and round, with Aligoté’s trademark acidity fully tamed. Touch is the word that comes to mind most often–the palate is caressed; the mixture of creamy and bright is expertly achieved. Awesome minerality on the finish is another reliable trademark. Tasting this without context you would be thinking really high quality white Burgundy, likely premier cru. Ente’s Aligoté is a real over-achiever, and one of the hidden gems in his range of wines. It is a rare treat to be able to offer a few cases of this more widely than usual. –Dixon Brooke

TECHNICAL INFORMATION

• Vintage 2014
• Bottle Size 750mL
• Blend Aligoté
• Appellation Meursault
• Country France
• Region Burgundy
• Vineyard Planted in 1938, .35 ha
• Soil Sand, Clay
• Winemaker Arnaud Ente
• Aging Raised in demi-muids
• Farming Lutte Raisonnée
• Alcohol 13%