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2008 Côtes du Jura Savagnin “Clos Bacchus Sous Voile 7 ans”

Domaine Rousset-Martin

2008 Côtes du Jura Savagnin “Clos Bacchus Sous Voile 7 ans” Domaine Rousset-Martin - Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant
The Clos Bacchus is another one of the Jura’s most reputed terroirs for Savagnin. We offered the ouillé version of this vineyard in April with the 2013 Veine Bleue de Bacchus. Imagine if that dry, lemony, saline wine had been left to age in barrel for another five years sous voile. Well, you don’t have to imagine, because this is what it tastes like. Honey and musk emerge from the glass in a deeply complex mélange that is reminiscent of yellow chartreuse. On the palate it is a different animal entirely, with salty comté cheese rind and high treble acidity, finishing with a suggestion of toasted walnuts. I highly recommend finishing off a nice dinner party with a bottle of this and a platter of the Jura’s great cheeses.

Dixon Brooke

$74.00
Vintage: 2008
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Savagnin (sous voile)
Appellation: Côtes du Jura
Country: France
Region: Jura
Producer: François Rousset-Martin
Winemaker: Francois Rousset-Martin
Vineyard: 40 years, 1.11 ha
Soil: Gray marl
Aging: Aged sous-voile in barrel for 7 years
Farming: Organic (practicing)
Alcohol: 13.5%

More from this Producer or Region

About Jura

The Jura wine world is a fascinating, mysterious, and at times confusing one. The region’s recent surge in popularity on American wine lists lies in contrast with how strange its wines come across to the uninitiated, with many of its indigenous production methods and quirky winemakers requiring more than an introduction for one to fully savor their virtues. We firmly believe, however, that the pleasure at stake is well worth a slight detour to study the wild world of Jura.

Jura tradition calls for aging whites sous voile, or under a fine “veil” of yeast that grows over wine in barrel that has not been topped-off (non ouillé) to compensate for evaporation. The voile effectively slows the process of oxidation, while chemical reactions between these microorganisms and the wine below give rise to a highly distinctive and complex set of aromas. Often hinting at walnuts, beeswax, oriental spices, cheese rind, and brine, wines aged sous voile can come as a shock to the unhabituated palate. Their textural and aromatic singularity naturally sets them in a category of their own at table, perhaps the best setting in which to gain an appreciation for such wines.

Many Jura producers also produce more conventional whites in an ouillé, or topped-off style, as is practiced in Burgundy–or for that matter, in essentially all the white wines we are accustomed to. This method preserves fresh fruit flavors without the rather rustic, often funky oxidative notes typical of wines aged sous voile.

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Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch

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