I’d like to nominate this wine as a candidate for your house white: a thirst-quenching, spirit-lifting, and downright delicious white Burgundy that is never not the right bottle to open. The always inspired Valentin Montanet over-delivers with this unfussy, organically made Chardonnay. Sure, it’s a Bourgogne, but the lighting need not be perfect, nor should you save it for company (although they would be impressed). A wine for winding down and perking up—treat yourself on any night of the week.
If you see Franck Follin’s bottling of Pernand-Vergelesses blanc on offer, don’t dillydally. We only get a few cases, due to a number of factors. For starters, Franck has less than a hectare of this parcel, which is never a vigorous provider. The slope at the base of the hill of Corton is steep and difficult to work, and yields are low and slow to ripen due to a somewhat shady exposition. While this may not sound desirable for a cool climate like Burgundy, in a robust, early ripening and sunny year like 2018, the respite is perfect. Ever the racy and mineral cuvée, this particular vintage is all silk and flesh, and a rare village treat from a producer of mainly premier and grand cru wines.
The tiny Hameau de Blagny is a hidden gem of vineyards that straddle the communes of Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, where you’ll find a handful of premier cru sites like La Genelotte. This lieu-dit falls on the Meursault side of Blagny yet tastes of pure Puligny to me. It is somewhat quiet on the nose right now, but one sip speaks loudly and clearly of a sturdy, impenetrable limestone subsoil that will grip every bit of your palate and hardly let go. Vigneron Laurent Martelet—whom Kermit describes as having his feet planted firmly in the soil and his head in the stars—is a genuine steward of the land. He pursues purity and truth in his crystalline wines, and La Genelotte communicates nothing less.
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