Rhône Reds
by Allyson Noman
September is when the Bay Area finally sees its best summer days. Sun-warmed hours stretch long through the afternoon, elongating golden sunsets before fading into late dusk evenings. Depending on where you’re reading this newsletter, you, too, may be savoring the final nights of al fresco dining—or perhaps embracing a brisk turn toward autumn. Whatever the weather, these reds from up and down the Rhône are well suited to all sorts of occasions, from fancy to fanciful.
2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape “Télégramme”
France | Southern Rhône
If you’re like me, the right patch of light or sliver of sound can transport you to another time. Opening this classic, ready-to-drink bottling from the Brunier family takes me straight to the holidays. Not just because it’s a wine that feels like the marker of a special season, but because it smells like fir and pine sap, the perfect counterbalance to its aromatic red fruit. Made mostly from the La Crau vineyard’s younger vines, it offers up a juicy drinkability that’s both cozy and craveable, all year round.
2024 Côtes-du-Rhône “Poignée de Raisins”
France | Southern Rhône
Surely someone will take issue with this, but Maxime-François Laurent’s joyous biodynamic rouge feels to me like the southern Rhône’s version of Beaujolais Nouveau. A youthful bottling of mostly Grenache with a touch of Cinsault, it bursts with both varieties’ signature juiciness and—if we’re lucky—can illuminate what’s to come from the region’s 2024 vintage. I’d be lying, however, if I promised they’d all be this quaffable and delicious. Best served with a chill.
2023 Saint-Joseph Rouge
France | Northern Rhône
A wine with the energy of the great outdoors! Or, as my partner said, “It has a ‘just shot a boar’ kind of vibe.” Flint, bramble, and fruit: the nose is full of supple black cherry and cured olives, with hints of smoked-meat gaminess around the edges. The palate has grip and a pleasantly surprising lick of brightness.