Red Burgundy
by Chris Santini
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru “La Perrière”
Domaine Lucien Boillot et Fils
France | Burgundy
From the smallest plot of a quite small Burgundian estate comes a rare and grandiose wine from the illustrious Côte Chambertin (as this slope is colloquially called in these parts). Boillot’s touch is on full display here with equal parts power and grace. Soak in the smoky hints of this bottling’s vast perfume, relish those melted tannins, and you just may find yourself asking if Gevrey can get any better than this. Ready to drink now.
2021 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru “Les Chaignots”
France | Burgundy
The Chevillon brothers, who farm and bottle no less than eight different premiers crus of Nuits-Saint-Georges, will often pour the Chaignots first when tasting the range. They do so not because of any supposed hierarchy of the premiers crus but rather because this one just shines bright and early. Vinifying as the Chevillons do—which is to say resolutely old-school with long macerations of destemmed grapes, allowing slow and soft extractions—their reds often need several years of cellaring for the austerity to lift. Les Chaignots, though, has a knack for hitting the ground running, loaded with floral notes and juicy fruit, perfect for those who prefer not to wait for the party!
2006 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru “La Riotte”
France | Burgundy
Speaking of waiting, isn’t it nice when the domaine takes care of that for you? From a terroir and a vintage that gave a deep, dark, brooding wine which begged for more time—the domaine tucked it away for well over fifteen years, checking on it from time to time, until they deemed it ready for your glass. No sense in waiting any further: it’s time to wake this one from its slumber and take it home. An uncommon opportunity to appreciate the wonders of properly cellared fine red Burgundy.
More from the September 2024 Newsletter
