Older-Vintage Rouges
by Jane Augustine
2015 Côte-de-Brouilly
France | Beaujolais
What a treat to pull the cork on this gently aged Côte-de-Brouilly from Nicole Chanrion. This is a flattering Beaujolais, with black pepper and peony on the nose, and it’s primed to make anything you enjoy it with taste even better. I drank mine with Beluga lentils and slow-cooked sausages, which drew upon the wine’s earthier and richly layered qualities. The pairing got me excited about transitioning away from the season of chilled light reds into a more grounding, cozy time of year when meatier dishes abound, with wines to match.
2010 Canon-Fronsac
France | Bordeaux
Grégoire and Bénédicte Hubau are outliers among their Bordeaux neighbors: their personable style and commitment to low-intervention, “natural” winemaking are qualities you’d more likely expect from the friendly gangs of vignerons from the Beaujolais, Loire, or off-the-beaten-path Languedoc. Their terroir-driven Canon-Fronsac always satisfies my hankering for something comforting and out of the ordinary. A decade in bottle has softened this rouge into an open-knit, unbuttoned style of Bordeaux, beaming with aromas of bing cherry, anise, and violet. You’ll be happy to serve it for a special occasion, or when you simply want to spoil yourself.
2014 Bandol Rouge
France | Provence
In always looking to fine-tune his craft, Alain Pascal may be his own toughest critic. But in striving for perfection, he catches excellence, as they say. His 2014 Bandol rouge is a vintage that Alain describes as gouleyant—easy-drinking, but also effortless, charming, and laced with nuance. It's been delicious since release, and continues to get better.