Northern Rhône
by Chris Santini
2024 Saint-Joseph Blanc “Clef de Sol”
France | Northern Rhône
I finally got the chance to meet the affable and engaging Bastien Jolivet in person at his domaine just last month, and this blanc was the absolute highlight of the visit, which says a lot given the stunning quality of the entire range. Once an ignored afterthought of the region, Saint-Joseph blanc now rivals the greatest of the local reds (while still trailing far behind in quantity, sadly!). This perfect mix of acidity and unctuous texture gives persistent floral notes with a long almond finish.
2023 Crozes-Hermitage Rouge “Passe Temps”
France | Northern Rhône
What do you do when you inherit a tiny plot of vines previously used for family and friends’ consumption? I suppose you either go all out and get more land, try to build up a domaine, and go full-time on it, or you keep your day job, be content with what you got, and have some fun with it. Frédéric chose the latter, slowly fixing up the vineyard in his free time, making wine in a garage the size of a closet, while carrying on with his job selling winery supplies to domaines in the region. Using his position to glean tips and advice from his clients (Thierry Allemand was one in particular who offered assistance and inspiration), Frédéric soon had a local following in and around his village for his old-school, dark, juicy Crozes with its hints of tapenade and smoke. A couple years ago, Kermit happened to stop in town for lunch at the local saloon, was promptly served a bottle of Pierro’s, and the rest is history.
2023 Hermitage Rouge “La Pierrelle”
France | Northern Rhône
It’s been said that Hermitage should taste like…Hermitage. While there may not be an official definition of what that means exactly, those who have been fortunate enough to experience truly great Hermitage might have an idea. For me, this vintage of La Pierrelle really defines it: expansive savory aromas, meaty, broad, velvety tannins, grandness, ripeness and freshness, all at once. Only in Hermitage!