As we enter my favorite time of the year to eat oysters, I’m filling my fridge with more and more crisp, zesty whites like this Sauvignon Blanc from Domaine du Salvard. West of Sancerre in the Loire Valley, the Delaille brothers work wonders in some of the region’s unsung vineyard land, turning out pure, delicious, and versatile blancs that go as well with fresh seafood as they do with salads or a cheese board.

Muscadet is also generally considered an oyster wine, but this cuvée is Fred Lailler’s masterpiece that transcends any pigeonholing that sometimes happens with these whites from the western Loire. Named for one of the region’s most prized crus that sits atop a very special soil called gabbro, Gorges boasts an incredible texture and tension imparted by this decomposed, blue-green igneous rock, seventy-year-old vines, and years-long aging on the lees. Moules marinières or any kind of seafood pasta are matches made in heaven.

Thierry Germain is among the minority of vignerons we work with who are equally focused on—and adept at—making both white and red wines. It doesn’t hurt that Thierry has incredible vineyard plots in both Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc. Insolite means “uncommon” or “exceptional” and refers in this instance to the wine’s terroir: ninety-year-old Chenin Blanc vines planted along a plateau above the Loire River made up of flinty soils, which are very rare in Saumur. The resulting blanc is chiseled and electric and boasts notes of citrus, herbs, and stones that would beautifully complement pan-fried sea bass or shrimp tacos.