Domaine Chevillon
One of Burgundy’s Best
by Tom Wolf
If you asked me to name just one Achilles heel of the Burgundy classification system—there are a few tempting choices—I would argue it’s that Nuits-Saint-Georges doesn’t have any grand cru vineyards among its roughly three hundred hectares of vines. Because what do you mean Nuits-Saint-Georges’ Domaine Chevillon, one of the greatest, most consistent addresses in the Côte d’Or, doesn’t produce any grand cru wine!? In truth, I kind of relish this peculiarity: whether it’s an underdog story or a tasty tale of bureaucratic oversight, year after year, Domaine Chevillon’s Nuits-Saint-Georges go toe-to-toe with many of the Côte de Nuits’ finest grand cru Pinot Noirs.
Our partnership with the Chevillon family goes back almost five decades, and for reasons of timing, legacy, family dynamics, consistency, and even to some extent the wines’ character, I can’t help but think of them as our Vieux Télégraphe in Burgundy. A tip from Hubert de Montille led Kermit to Robert Chevillon’s door in 1980, and in the ensuing decade, Mr. Chevillon showed an unbelievable knack for producing impeccable reds no matter the vintage—a superpower that remains core to the domaine these days under the leadership of his sons Denis and Bertrand. Thanks to old vines, small yields, the village’s best terroirs, and traditional winemaking methods, their Nuits-Saint-Georges tend to be muscular, pure, and soulful, built for gorgeous evolution over decades. There’s a reason why colleagues and I stash some away any chance we get.
2023 Bourgogne Chardonnay
France | Burgundy
As majestic as their Nuits-Saint-Georges are, Denis and Bertrand take their Bourgognes equally seriously. In my book, their Bourgogne blanc is as good as you’ll find. Sourced from vines co-planted among Pinot Noir with naturally low yields, this electric Chardonnay sweeps across your palate with flavors of honey crisp, orange blossom, and almond. There is plenty of substance here, worthy of a feast.
2023 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain
France | Burgundy
I think of most Chevillon reds as hovering in Pinot Noir’s bass range, but this bright, throwback field blend of Pinot and Gamay is decidedly tenor. Fresh, tart, and floral, it’s redolent of cranberry, violet, and tea—a lunchtime or apéro hour treat! It represents the yin to the Nuits-Saint-Georges’ yang.
2023 Nuits-Saint-Georges “Vieilles Vignes”
France | Burgundy
This old-vine Nuits-Saint-Georges is a noble Pinot: raw, deep, concentrated, with notes of cherries, iron, and spice. It’s begging to be paired with your favorite beef stew.
2023 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru “Les Bousselots”
France | Burgundy
A step up in refinement and opulence, Les Bousselots abounds with pretty red fruit, plums, and minerality. Beware: if you love this, there are seven other premiers crus from Chevillon you might be tempted to explore, and before you know it, you will be looking for space to stock it all!