Chotard Sancerre
by Chris Santini
Daniel Chotard, with whom we’ve now been working for a few good decades, steered his old family estate away from polyculture (grapes, livestock, and grains) to concentrate solely on making great Sancerre. And make great Sancerre he did, each year sending us a lively and delicious Sancerre blanc, a fruity rosé, and a light and earthy rouge. These wines embodied the “bistro” style of the day, meant for easy sipping by day and boisterous drinking by night, tailor-made for Daniel’s legendary accordion playing, which was guaranteed to have the room singing and dancing in no time. Since 2011, Daniel’s son Simon has come on board, and while they maintain the classic blanc–rosé–rouge, Simon has been exploring what else their terroir may have to offer and adapting to changes, notably a warming climate and waning bistro culture. With a focus on microclimates, organic farming, native yeasts, low- to no-sulfur winemaking, and fermentations in large casks (to name just the tip of the iceberg), Simon has created a spectacular and colorful range of Sancerre 2.0, if you will: single-parcel crus that are evocative, transcendent wines with strong character and identity showcasing just how serious Sancerre can be.
2020 Sancerre Rouge
France | Loire
Lovely Pinot Noir fruit, dark purple color, fully versatile, and ready to drink now.
2020 Sancerre “Les Coutones”
France | Loire
Grandiose, lavish Sauvignon Blanc from a small monopole holding that faces the rising sun, with a clay soil so dense and sticky the old-timers called it terre amoureuse (loving earth), for the way it clings to one’s boots. If the classic Sancerre above is a great blast from the past, the Coutones here is a glimpse of a great future.
2021 Sancerre
France | Loire
Wonderfully expressive, crisp, lip-smacking, give-me-more, fill-up-the-cup Sancerre! True to its roots.
More from the December 2024 Newsletter
