For your next Italian vacation, forget the usual suspects. Leave the strikingly rugged coastline of Amalfi, the azure beaches of Sicily and Sardinia, and the storied ruins of Rome for another time. Instead, I recommend a place you may not even know exists.
     When I rave about Le Marche (lay mar-kay), I’m more often than not met with a blank stare. But if gorgeous, unspoiled landscapes descending from the mountains to the sea, charming villages with more locals than tourists, a delectable local cuisine, and a burgeoning wine scene sound like something you might enjoy, then read on.
     Getting to Le Marche is not easy, and that’s probably why you’ll find respite from the swarms of tourists who flock to more popular destinations. Situated about halfway down the boot, Le Marche is Tuscany’s Adriatic counterpart, featuring 110 miles of sprawling coastline that rises inland toward Italy’s mountainous backbone: the Apennines. Your best bet is to fly into Bologna. Lay over for an evening to enjoy thinly sliced mortadella and cool, frothy Lambrusco, and then you are just a two-hour drive to the coastal town of Senigallia—our home base in Le Marche.
     Once in Senigallia, your first order of business is to stock up on wine. Galli is the best enoteca in town—and perhaps in Italy—and you’ll find plenty of familiar labels, including Quintarelli, Giulia Negri, and even French treasures like Robert-Denogent and mature Lapierre Morgon. The affable owner, Guido Galli, will be more than happy to show off local specialties, and when you’re in Le Marche, that means Verdicchio.
     Among Italy’s great white grapes, Verdicchio can make everything from seaside quaffers to textured, age-worthy collectibles. Picture the herbal and floral aromatics of Vermentino with a Riesling-like acidity, and you have an idea. Sprinkle in some Muscadet and white Burgundy: now you can imagine the complete range of what this grape can do.
     At this point, it’s time for an aperitivo, and La Marca di San Michele’s NumerOcinque, a sophisticated bottle-refermented Verdicchio still resting on its lees, is just the ticket. With sloping limestone vineyards amid Le Marche’s lush rolling hills, this young estate is spearheading a dynamic movement that is now in full swing, creating single-vineyard wines via responsible farming, spontaneous fermentations, and long lees aging. Next, uncork La Marca’s flagship whites: the bracingly crisp, stony Capovolto and the luscious and creamy, cask-aged Passolento, which has the depth and class of many a much more prestigious (and expensive) wine. Don’t forget the red: Bastian Contrario is their charmingly rustic Montepulciano, perfect for serving chilled with grilled salsiccia, locally made prosciutto, or rabbit porchetta.
     If Verdicchio is now enjoying a revival, it can thank eclectic visionary Stefano Antonucci for setting the wheels in motion thirty years ago. A banker by trade, Antonucci left his desk job to reinvest in the vineyards surrounding his hometown of Barbara, a half-hour’s drive inland of Senigallia. His success in crafting delicious wines at unthinkably low prices paved the way for ambitious newcomers like La Marca, and we are proud to offer some of his wines in these pages. His Colleleva Verdicchio is an Adriatic dream: lean and brisk on the palate, with trademark aromas of pine nut and lime zest, plus a sizzling saline finish. His reds are just as convivial and thirst-quenching—don’t miss the rare, lavender-scented Lacrima di Morro d’Alba, or the bold and juicy Rosso Piceno.
     Senigallia is awash with great restaurants, and Pagaia should be your first stop for lunch. A bustling locale specializing in fresh seafood, it offers up pristine crudo platters, perfectly al dente pastas with the frutti di mare of your choice, and the day’s catch cooked up any which way. The wine list features countless local selections, including Verdicchios from La Marca and Colleleva.
     After a restorative nap and espresso, a leisurely stroll through Senigallia’s cobblestone avenues, expansive piazzas, and narrow alleyways will get you to Sepia, where you’ve booked dinner. Niko, the chef, is a Sicilian transplant who has found a new place to share his art. His medium is fish, and on my visit he served a veritable masterpiece of handmade busiate with a tuna, caper, and wild fennel ragù. Despite a fine selection of Verdicchios, Niko will likely opt to pour you something from Sicily, and he won’t steer you wrong.
     Finally, you must pay a visit to Paolo Brunelli, Senigallia’s resident gelato maestro. Like me, you will fall in love with Le Marche when you taste the world-class seafood and wine. But when you indulge in Brunelli’s award-winning artisanal gelato, you can truly say your love has been consummated.