Roger Neveu once told a journalist that phylloxera, the pest that wiped out swaths of vineyards in Sancerre in the late 19th century, brought with it a silver lining: growers replanted their vineyards with Sauvignon Blanc, the aromatic, racy variety that’s synonymous with the appellation today. Before that, Sancerre was a red wine outpost, with microclimates similar to those in Burgundy, and a chalky Kimmeridgian limestone soil sown with seashells—near identical to that of Chablis. In the 1960s and ’70s, local vignerons like Neveu and Hippolyte Reverdy decided to stop selling their precious wine in bulk, bottle it themselves, and head to the bistros of Paris to educate buyers on their stunning region. The timing was opportune: a devastating frost in Chablis, whose wines were the darlings of Paris, had caused prices to soar and Parisian restaurateurs were eager for an affordable blanc to add to their daily lists, one that vigorously cleansed the palate alongside a tower of shellfish. Sancerre swooped in and the rest is history.
     Today, Sancerre is a household name, and the wines remain as joyful and invigorating to drink as ever. A great Sancerre can be at once plump and sumptuous, or nervy and textural, always with a beguiling herbal quality, making it the perfect foil to so many different kinds of cuisine. In this sampler, we’ve included a spectrum of Sancerres from all three of the growers we represent. You’ll find classic, steely whites from Neveu and Reverdy, as well as a richer cuvée from young Simon Chotard, “Les Cris.” It’s made with a portion of botrytized grapes—grapes touched by the same “noble rot” that produces Sauternes—which contribute a subtle honeyed character, creating an irresistible tart-sweet tension. Enjoy the last languid days of summertime with a weightless Pinot Noir rosé from Neveu that tastes of nectarine and stone, then fire up the grill for the main course with a blanc and rouge from Chotard. Sancerre may have left its red-wine identity behind, but Simon offers a taste of yesteryear with his complex Pinot. Try it with grilled prawns, chicken skewers, and charred corn on the cob, or anything you’d serve alongside a fine and pretty Pinot Noir; his 2022 is blossoming with floral notes and warm spice.