Next time you desire a light, stony white for your apéritif, skip the Sancerre and Chablis. Instead, uncork a Gamay.
        No—that was no typo. Let me explain: Nicole Chanrion, the fearless trailblazer who has crafted a Côte de Brouilly that shocks us with its authentic character, affordability, and utter deliciousness for the last thirty years and counting, now makes a still white. Or rather, her son, Romain, who has just joined the family business, marked his debut with a novel idea: a direct-press Gamay from early-harvested grapes, vinified as a white for a blanc de noirs expression of one of the great crus of Beaujolais.
        The outcome? A brisk, mineral-driven quaffer worthy of a slot in anybody’s apéro rotation.
        If it is pure refreshment you seek, you might also explore the bounty of northern Italy, where countless indigenous grapes are responsible for characterful whites of serious intrigue. A peachy Friulano from the lush, terraced hillsides of Friuli’s Colli Orientali would certainly do the trick.
        Alternatively, uncork a Sauvignon Blanc, but choose one grown outside of the grape’s Loire homeland. Sauvignon has been cultivated in Italy since the late 19th century, and it has found a home away from home in Alto Adige, where it clings to sheer limestone façades for dear life. Peter Dipoli ages his mountain Sauvignon in acacia casks, and it tastes nothing like any wine from the Loire or anywhere else.
        For a bit more substance and weight, consider Provence. The Côtes de Provence from Clos St. Joseph brilliantly balances sun-soaked richness with limestone nerve, perfectly reflecting the dueling influences of the Mediterranean and the Alps.
         You might say the off-the-beaten-path has been beaten one too many times. But we are constantly coming across new wines that stimulate the palate with novel flavors. So here is our latest batch of off-the-beaten-path whites: two French and two Italian selections—Gamay blanc included—to prove that variety is the real key to drinking well.