A few miles directly west of Pomerol and just above the Dordogne River on Bordeaux’s right bank lie the vineyards of Grégoire and Bénédicte Hubau. It is unusual and refreshing to see hillsides planted to the vine here. These limestone slopes are the exception rather than the rule in this mostly flat part of France dominated by terroirs of clay and gravel. When you view their vineyards from their home (“château”) at the top of the hill, you will immediately understand that this is a site for great wine.
     The Hubaus’ domaines—Château Moulin and Château Moulin Pey-Labrie—also stand out in Bordeaux for the vibrance and freshness of the wines they produce. Imagine the small, avant-garde farmers typically found in the Loire or Beaujolais transposed onto a Bordeaux landscape, and you have the Hubau family. For decades, they have been widely regarded as pioneers of progressive farming and winemaking in this often-staid region.
     The first bottle to open in this pack is the 2015 Canon Fronsac. This pure Merlot is sourced from clay-rich, lower-slope sites and bears the Château Moulin label, which represents Bordeaux’s potential for joyous and exuberant wines. These traits abound here, yet the classic 2015 vintage also provided significant seriousness and staying power, so you might consider laying down several bottles for frequent enjoyment over the next five years.
     The 2010 and 2005 Canon Fronsacs, meanwhile, come from the family’s Château Moulin Pey-Labrie, their label for structured, age-worthy reds. Grégoire and Bénédicte farm the old vines (95% Merlot and 5% Malbec) that make up this cuvée on upper-slope sites rich in limestone, providing more concentration and minerality than the fruit-driven wines of Château Moulin.
     Not unlike the 2015, the 2010 features aromas of strawberries and cassis with a certain woodsiness, but it feels deep and soulful in contrast with its younger, more playful sibling. Finally, the almost savory 2005 displays notes of tobacco and forest that have come with time. Still full of life and energy, it is worth decanting while you enjoy the 2015 and the 2010. Finish your night with the most mature vintage, and you’ll understand what is so special and irresistible about old-school aged Bordeaux.