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Tasting the Dolomitic Alps

Tasting the Dolomitic Alps

by Tom Wolf by Tom Wolf

Prosecco Superiore Brut

Prosecco Superiore Brut

Sommariva   

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Sommariva    Italy   |  Veneto   |  Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore

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I’ve never sipped from a stream running down from the Dolomitic Alps into the foothills of northeastern Italy, but I imagine it would taste as bracing, crisp, and pure as Sommariva’s Prosecco Superiore. With its light and elegant notes of citrus and orchard fruit, this is one of the stand-out, exquisitely crafted wines of this region.
     In the 1970s, Caterino Sommariva moved the family’s focus from the high plains of the Veneto to the slopes, which are today among those gorgeous hillsides recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. This shift meant harder labor, and Cinzia Sommariva—who watched her parents toil away on steep inclines—almost didn’t become part of the family azienda, lured by less backbreaking careers. But in the end, Cinzia joined, recognizing her father’s prescience: that Glera grown along the slopes would gain the greatest complexity, steady maturation, and invigorating sunshine and breezes, resulting in the most beautifully balanced wines. This bottling certainly is evidence of that vision, and the price is encouragement to keep a bottle ready at all times, because great Prosecco always comes in handy.

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About The Region

Veneto

map of Veneto

Italy’s most prolific wine region by volume, the Veneto is the source of some of the country’s most notorious plonk: you’ll find oceans of insipid Pinot Grigo, thin Bardolino, and, of course, the ubiquitous Prosecco. And yet, the Veneto produces the highest proportion of DOC wine of any Italian region: home to prestigious appellations like Valpolicella, Amarone, and Soave, it is capable of excelling in all three colors, with equally great potential in the bubbly and dessert departments.

With almost 200,000 acres planted, the Veneto has a wealth of terroirs split between the Po Valley and the foothills of the Alps. While the rich soils of the flatlands are conducive to mechanization, high yields, and mass production of bulk wine, the areas to the north offer a fresher climate and a diversity of poor soil types, ideal for food-friendly wines that show a sense of place. Whether it’s a charming Prosecco Superiore from the Glera grape, a stony Soave or Gambellara from Garganega, or a Corvina-based red in any style, the Veneto’s indigenous grape varieties show real character when worked via traditional production methods.

Since his first visit in 1979, Kermit has regularly returned to the Veneto to enjoy its richness of fine wines and local cuisine. Our collaboration with Corte Gardoni, our longest-running Italian import, is a testament to this. The proximity of beautiful cities like Verona and Venice, with their deep culinary heritage, certainly doesn’t hurt, either.

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Terroirs

Great winemakers, great terroirs, there is never any hurry. And I no longer buy into this idea of “peak” maturity. Great winemakers, great terroirs, their wines offer different pleasures at different ages.

Inspiring Thirst, page 312

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