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La Belle Vie, Breton Style

La Belle Vie, Breton Style

by Jane Augustine by Jane Augustine

A Sale Selection from the Champagne & Sparkling Sale A Sale Selection from the Champagne & Sparkling Sale

2024 Vin de France Brut Nature “Elle est pas bulle la vie?”

2024 Vin de France Brut Nature “Elle est pas bulle la vie?”

Catherine & Pierre Breton   

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Catherine & Pierre Breton    France   |  Loire   |  Vin de France

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The playful moniker of this sparkling wine should tell you everything you need to know about what’s in the bottle. “Is life not beautiful?”, the label asks, the word belle replaced with bulle, the French word for bubble. Life, from the Bretons’ point of view, is effervescent—worth celebrating over a glass of something tasty. While the Bretons may be pleasure-seekers, unserious at times, they do not take their reputation for characterful wines lightly; what they eschew in formality, they make up for with intentional practices in the vineyard and cellar. Flawless natural wines like theirs, albeit evocative of a laissez-faire lifestyle, require precision, discipline, and experience. It’s why their style can be so challenging for aspiring vignerons, seeking a non-interventionalist approach to winemaking, to replicate.
     Lucky then that Catherine and Pierre’s two children, France and Paul, were raised to balance both joie de vivre and rigor, and have taken over the domaine to uphold their family’s good name. “Elle est pas bulle” is the artistry of Paul Breton, who has a penchant for Chenin and a taste for the enticing qualities of a pétillant naturel. This Vin de France, made with grapes grown in the Vouvray appellation, sparkles naturally, meaning it ferments in bottle without the use of dosage or sulfur, giving us a gregarious, palate-pleasing wine that’s one of the more radical ways to kick off an apéritif. It’s less classical than other sparkling wines—a bit more wild, savory, and lush—but equally cheers-worthy. La vie est definitely bulle

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More from this Producer or Region

About The Region

Loire

map of Loire

The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?

Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.

Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.

Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.

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Where the newsletter started

Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch

Read the whole story

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