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2023 Reuilly “Les Pierres Plates”

Domaine de Reuilly
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You might do a double take after your first sip of this mouthwatering blanc from Domaine de Reuilly and wonder, “Is this Chablis?” It is not Chardonnay from Chablis, but Sauvignon Blanc from the eastern slice of the Loire region! Like the best Burgundian Chardonnay, however, this Sauvignon Blanc serves to transmit its Reuilly-ness more than its Sauvignon Blanc-ness. Instead of tropical, heavily grassy notes, you get a lean, chiseled frame with hints of crushed rock and citrus. The limestone parcel where it originates is called “Les Pierres Plates”—the flat stones—which is filled with fossilized shells from the Kimmeridgian period, when France was covered by ocean. Where you find this soil in Chablis and parts of Champagne, you also find bone-dry, flinty, almost saline wines that are the soulmates of shellfish. Denis Jamain of Domaine de Reuilly farms organically and biodynamically, which allows this single-vineyard Sauvignon’s minéralité to sing its purest song.

Tom Wolf

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Technical Information
Wine Type: white
Vintage: 2023
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Sauvignon Blanc
Appellation: Reuilly
Country: France
Region: Loire
Producer: Domaine de Reuilly
Winemaker: Denis Jamain
Vineyard: 23 years average, 11 ha
Soil: Clay, Kimmeridgian Limestone
Farming: Biodynamic (certified)
Alcohol: 13%

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About The Region

Loire

map of Loire

The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?

Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.

Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmderidgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.

Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.

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Inspiring Thirst

I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.

Inspiring Thirst, page 171

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