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2022 Bouches-du-Rhône Blanc “Baume Noire”
Clos Sainte MagdeleineAbout a decade ago, Kermit stared up at the steep, limestone terraces rising up from Clos Sainte Magdeleine’s seaside domaine in Cassis and knew that this terroir would be perfectly suited to Vermentino, the variety behind some of his favorite white wines made just across the sea in Corsica. Called Rolle throughout much of southern France and used predominantly in white blends, Vermentino arguably reaches its greatest heights in Corsica, where it is vinified and bottled alone, producing chiseled, mineral, and complex whites that, at their best, draw comparisons to Chablis.
Inspired by Kermit’s suggestion, vigneron Jonathan Sack set to planting a hectare of Vermentino, using sélection massale vines from Clos Canarelli at Corsica’s southern tip. Also inspired by Provençal heroine Dominique Hauvette’s pioneering use of concrete eggs to age her white wines, Jonathan decided to employ similar vessels—sandstone amphorae—to age this Vermentino with the goal of preserving and enhancing as much of its inherent elegance, minerality, and aromatic brilliance as possible. I recently opened a bottle of this pure Vermentino alongside oysters on the half shell—a perfect pairing—but Jonathan also recommended sea bream carpaccio, an array of antipasti, and grilled fish. It is a seafood lover’s dream wine.
—Tom Wolf
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2022 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Vermentino |
Appellation: | I.G.P. Bouches-du-Rhône |
Country: | France |
Region: | Provence |
Producer: | Clos Sainte Magdeleine |
Vineyard: | 1.1 ha, 5 years |
Soil: | Limestone |
Farming: | Organic (certified) |
Alcohol: | 13% |
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About The Producer
Clos Sainte Magdeleine
About The Region
Provence
There is perhaps no region more closely aligned with the history of Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant than Provence. While Kermit began his career as a Burgundy specialist, he soon fell in love with Provence and its wines, notably the legendary Bandols of Domaine Tempier, which he began importing in 1977. He later began living in the area part-time, returning frequently between tasting trips, and today he spends most of his time at his home just outside of Bandol.
Provence is thought to be France’s most ancient wine region, established when Greek settlers landed in the modern-day port city of Marseille in the 6th century BC. The conditions here are ideal for cultivation of the grapevine, with a hot, dry climate and a prevalence of poor, rocky soils, primarily limestone-based, suitable for vines and not much else. The ever-present southern sunshine as well as the mistral, a cold, drying wind from the northwest that helps keep the vines free of disease, are crucial elements of Provençal terroir. Wild herbs from the pervasive scrubland, called garrigue, and cooling saline breezes from the Mediterranean also contribute to the quality and character of wines in all three colors.
Provence is well known for its rosés, but red wines have always held importance here. The very best, such as those from Bandol, possess great depth and a capacity for long-term aging. The white wines, notably those of Cassis, offer weight balanced by a maritime freshness, making them ideal pairings for the local seafood. Mourvèdre reigns king for red grapes, supported mainly by Grenache and Cinsault, while Clairette, Marsanne, Rolle, and Ugni Blanc are the region’s principal white grapes.
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Vintage Chart Mentality
Vintage Chart Mentality
Trust the great winemakers, trust the great vineyards. Your wine merchant might even be trustworthy. In the long run, that vintage strip may be the least important guide to quality on your bottle of wine.—Kermit Lynch