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2021 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune

Bruno Colin
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Considering that some appellations in Burgundy are no larger than a small hill, the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune is an exceedingly vast one for the region. It stretches over many villages (twenty-two, to be precise) and all kinds of geology and soils, with a variation of quality to match. There are some stunning wines being made these days in those hills, and some disappointments, too. Relatively affordable land has made the appellation a bit of an El Dorado for newcomers, as well as for established producers like Bruno Colin looking to grow. Bruno has found what may just be the greatest real estate the Hautes-Côtes has to offer, a plot square and center at the top of the hill where the premiers crus of Saint-Aubin and Chassagne-Montrachet connect. The wine is surprisingly serious for the appellation, gold colored, rich, open, and expressive. It has a lot of Saint-Aubin flair, with an added touch of citrus and quince from the slightly higher elevation. This one will contribute to pushing the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune reputation to new heights.

Chris Santini

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Technical Information
Wine Type: white
Vintage: 2021
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Chardonnay
Appellation: Bourgogne
Country: France
Region: Burgundy
Producer: Bruno Colin
Vineyard: 21 years, .37 ha
Soil: Clay, Limestone
Farming: Lutte Raisonnée
Alcohol: 13%

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About The Region

Burgundy

map of Burgundy

In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.

Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.

To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.

Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.

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Sampling wine out of the barrel.

When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:

1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.

Inspiring Thirst, page 174

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