2019 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore “Capovolto”La Marca di San Michele
Italy | Le Marche
$27
Producers
Back in 1969 before Bacchus waved his magic wand and made me into a wine importer, I was banging about Europe on a penny-pinching holiday. Needing a rest en route from Barcelona to Salzburg, I pulled off the highway to find a hotel. The nearest village was Cassis, proving that accidents are not always tragic. I did not know the beauty of the place had attracted painters such as Vlaminck, Matisse, and Dufy, or that there were literary connections with Marcel Pagnol and M.F.K. Fisher. I simply needed a bed.
And stayed a week. I ate in cheap backstreet restaurants: fish soup, fish stew grilled fish, fruits de mer, always with a bottle of the local sun-drenched white wine. All the vintners produce red and rosé, but those don’t matter. It is its unique dry white that puts Cassis on the wine map.
The 1986 will convert cynics who say the incomparable beauty of the site makes the wine taste good. The vintage plays a role; conditions were perfect. The aroma is ripe and grapes, and all the flavors are intact because the Clos Sainte Madeleine has agreed to forgo a filtration at the mise en bouteille. A blend of Ugni blanc, Claudette, Marsanne, and Sauvignon blanc, here is the wine to enhance seafood and shellfish. On a warm evening it serves as an appropriate apéritif. It goes particularly well with Roquefort and goat cheese. And you sailors, here is the wine for your boat’s ice chest. It tastes as good on the Pacific as it does on the Mediterranean.
[From the June 1988 Newsletter]
32 years later, the tiny Cassis appellation is glimmering like never before. Try the 2020 Cassis Blanc to see for yourself.
—Kermit Lynch
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2020 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | 40% Marsanne, 30% Ugni blanc, 25% Clairette, 5% Bourboulenc |
Appellation: | Cassis |
Country: | France |
Region: | Provence |
Producer: | Clos Sainte Magdeleine |
Winemaker: | Jonathan Sack |
Vineyard: | Planted in 1972-2009 (40 years average), 9 ha |
Soil: | Clay, Limestone |
Aging: | Aged in stainless steel tanks and two 500-L demi-muids on fine lees until spring or early summer bottling |
Farming: | Organic (certified) |
Alcohol: | 13% |
Clos Sainte Magdeleine France | Provence | Cassis
Clos Sainte Magdeleine France | Provence | Cassis
Clos Sainte Magdeleine France | Provence | I.G.P. Bouches-du-Rhône
Clos Sainte Magdeleine France | Provence | Bouches-du-Rhône
Clos Sainte Magdeleine France | Provence | Côtes de Provence
Domaine Tempier France | Provence | Bandol
Perhaps there is no region more closely aligned with the history to Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant than Provence. Provence is where Richard Olney, an American ex-pat and friend of Alice Waters, lived, and introduced Kermit to the great producers of Provence, most importantly Domaine Tempier of Bandol. Kermit also spends upwards of half his year at his home in a small town just outside of Bandol.
Vitis vinifera first arrived in France via Provence, landing in the modern day port city of Marseille in the 6th century BC. The influence of terroir on Provençal wines goes well beyond soil types. The herbs from the pervasive scrubland, often referred to as garrigue, as well as the mistral—a cold, drying wind from the northwest that helps keep the vines free of disease—play a significant role in the final quality of the grapes. Two more elements—the seemingly ever-present sun and cooling saline breezes from the Mediterranean—lend their hand in creating a long growing season that result in grapes that are ripe but with good acidity.
Rosé is arguably the most well known type of wine from Provence, but the red wines, particularly from Bandol, possess a great depth of character and ability to age. The white wines of Cassis and Bandol offer complexity and ideal pairings for the sea-influenced cuisine. Mourvèdre reigns king for red grapes, and similar to the Languedoc and Rhône, Grenache, Cinsault, Marsanne, Clairette, Rolle, Ugni Blanc among many other grape varieties are planted.
Domaine Hauvette France | Provence | Les Baux de Provence
Clos Sainte Magdeleine France | Provence | Cassis
Domaine de la Tour du Bon France | Provence | Bandol
Clos Sainte Magdeleine France | Provence | Cassis
Clos Sainte Magdeleine France | Provence | I.G.P. Bouches-du-Rhône
Domaine du Gros ’Noré France | Provence | Bandol
Domaine Hauvette France | Provence | Alpilles
Domaine du Gros ’Noré France | Provence | Bandol
Clos Saint-Joseph France | Provence | Côtes de Provence
Domaine Tempier France | Provence | Bandol
Domaine Hauvette France | Provence | IGP Alpilles
Domaine Tempier France | Provence | Bandol
Let the brett nerds retire into protective bubbles, and whenever they thirst for wine it can be passed in to them through a sterile filter. Those of us on the outside can continue to enjoy complex, natural, living wines.
Inspiring Thirst, page 236
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