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2020 Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu sur lie “La Nöe”
Éric Chevalier
When Éric Chevalier welcomes us with a broad smile at our first stop, you can practically smell the Atlantic Ocean in the air. Éric pops open a bottle of La Noë. The first glass is perfect with oysters—it is streamlined, saline, and full of lemon. Shortly after, the granite terroir kicks in, the wine becomes more full bodied, and chamomile and apricot notes lead to a rich finish—perfect to accompany local fish dishes.
—Julia Issleib
| Wine Type: | white |
| Vintage: | 2020 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Melon de Bourgogne |
| Appellation: | Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Producer: | Éric Chevalier |
| Winemaker: | Éric Chevalier |
| Vineyard: | 20 - 60 year, 4 ha |
| Soil: | Granite |
| Aging: | Wine stays in foudre for fermentation and élevage, then raised 10-12 months depending on the vintage |
| Farming: | Organic (certified) |
| Alcohol: | 11.5% |
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About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
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2022 Jasnières “Dyane”
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2024 Savennières
Château d'Epiré France | Loire
2023 Chinon Blanc
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2024 Jasnières
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2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Gorges”
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2024 Menetou-Salon Blanc “Le Prieuré”
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Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch