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2020 Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru “La Genelotte”

Comtesse de Chérisey
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Great wines occasionally take me back to my time in classical music, and to earnest discussions about what makes a particular performance “great.” I’ve had similar conversations about wine, and the vocabulary sounds much the same: profundity, verve, intensity, charm, joy. Chérisey’s Genelotte is amazingly delicious and complex. For me, experiencing it is as sublime, contemplative, and joyous as Leonard Bernstein conducting Mahler with the Vienna Philharmonic. That comparison may strike others as absurd, but that’s just the nature of it. Whether it’s music or wine, at some point words begin to fail, and all that remains is the mystery of why this particular thing makes your heart sing.

Dustin Soiseth

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Technical Information
Wine Type: white
Vintage: 2020
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Chardonnay
Appellation: Meursault-Blagny
Country: France
Region: Burgundy
Producer: Comtesse de Chérisey
Winemaker: Hélène Martelet-de-Chérisey, Laurent Martelet
Vineyard: Planted between 1946-1955, 3.5 ha
Soil: Clay, Limestone
Aging: Settling of the juice for 12 hours then racked directly into 228-L oak barrels
Farming: Organic (practicing)
Alcohol: 13%

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About The Region

Burgundy

map of Burgundy

In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.

Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.

To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.

Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.

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Sampling wine out of the barrel.

When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:

1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.

Inspiring Thirst, page 174

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