Notify me
2019 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clisson “La Molette”
Domaine Michel Brégeon
This is off-the-charts Muscadet.
Evocative: a rarely used tasting note, maybe, but a fitting one for this wine. Shared with colleagues a few days ago, the Clisson’s expressive wet-stone and saline qualities summoned memories of the seaside and lavish oyster-accompanied aperitifs, while its long palate conjured a comparison to never-ending meals (“because it evolves like a good feast”). For my part, I was brought back to a particularly refreshing moment on vacation in Yosemite last month, when I plunged my feet into the icy-cold waters of the Merced River. A subtly floral nose and textured mouthfeel seal the deal. This is off-the-charts Muscadet.
—Emily Spillmann
| Wine Type: | white |
| Vintage: | 2019 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Melon de Bourgogne |
| Appellation: | Muscadet Sèvre et Maine |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Producer: | André-Michel Brégeon |
| Winemaker: | Fred Lailler |
| Vineyard: | 50 years average, 7.8 ha total |
| Soil: | Granite |
| Farming: | Organic (certified) |
| Alcohol: | 12% |
More from this Producer or Region
2023 Chinon Blanc
France | Loire
A rare Chenin Blanc from the land of Cabernet Franc. Ultra fresh and brimming with citrus blossom and orchard fruit notes, it has a saline, mineral finish that leaves my palate simultaneously satisfied and begging for more. Try it with fresh trout, grilled whole topped with chimichurri or smoked and tossed into a Niçoise salad.
2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Gorges”
France | Loire
Gorges boasts an incredible texture and tension imparted by decomposed, blue-green igneous rock, seventy-year-old vines, and years-long aging on the lees.
2024 Bourgueil “Cuvée Alouettes”
France | Loire
Alouettes harkens to a different era: it’s pleasantly tannic and chalky, with sleek notes of licorice, cranberry, and prickly black pepper.
2024 Gros-Plant du Pays Nantais
France | Loire
** New Wine Added ** This racy wine is a perfect match for all types of crustaceans as well all by itself on a sunny afternoon.
2024 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie
France | Loire
Classic Muscadet aromas endure, but there’s a complexity here that’s uncommon for an appellation known for its simple oyster wines.
2022 Saumur Champigny “Terres Chaudes”
France | Loire
Thierry has perfected the art of coaxing this Cabernet Franc’s soulfulness and elusive finesse into bottle.
2020 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clisson “La Molette”
France | Loire
A subtly floral nose and textured mouthfeel seal the deal. This is off-the-charts Muscadet.
2022 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Réserve”
France | Loire
When you smell it, keep in mind that no other wine, besides a Melon de Bourgogne grown in the gabbro soil of Gorges, could possibly smell like this one does.
2021 Vin de France Blanche
France | Loire
This skin-contact wine is redolent of blood orange and hyssop—a perfect apéritif for olives and anchovies.
2020 Vin de France Blanche
France | Loire
This lithe and expressive “orange” wine is an ideal palate-opener with a dry, cleansing finish and a fresh, cooling effect like coastal sage and seaspray.
About The Producer
André-Michel Brégeon
Michel Brégeon is part renegade, part crusader, and full-blown terroirist, ardently defending the Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine terroir. Thanks to his deep understanding of the land, he plays the game much differently than the region’s caves cooperatives and negociants, who produce en masse and lose the subtlety of the appellation. He worked for his family’s domaine before setting out on his own in 1975. When his father retired in 1989, he gave his remaining vineyard land to Michel. Today, Michel farms seven hectares of vineyards in clay, silica, and gabbro soils. Gabbro is old, blue-green, volcanic rock, rarely found in vineyard land. Formed by magma eruptions under the ocean floor, it imparts intense complexity to Michel’s wines.
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
More from Loire or France
2024 Coteaux du Loir Blanc
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2018 Saumur Blanc “Le Clos du Moulin”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2024 Cheverny
Domaine du Salvard France | Loire
2021 Vin de France Blanc “Chenin Centenaire”
Grange Saint-Sauveur France | Loire
2022 Vin de France Rouge “Le Martray”
Grange Saint Sauveur France | Loire
2024 Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu sur lie “La Nöe”
Eric Chevalier France | Loire
2020 Saumur Champigny “Clos de l’Échelier”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2021 Chinon “La Croix Boissée”
Bernard Baudry France | Loire
2020 Vin de France Blanche
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire
2020 Bourgueil “Les Perrières”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2024 Quincy
Domaine Trotereau France | Loire
2024 Sancerre
Domaine Roger Neveu France | Loire
2024 Coteaux du Loir Blanc
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2018 Saumur Blanc “Le Clos du Moulin”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2024 Cheverny
Domaine du Salvard France | Loire
2021 Vin de France Blanc “Chenin Centenaire”
Grange Saint-Sauveur France | Loire
2022 Vin de France Rouge “Le Martray”
Grange Saint Sauveur France | Loire
2024 Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu sur lie “La Nöe”
Eric Chevalier France | Loire
2020 Saumur Champigny “Clos de l’Échelier”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2021 Chinon “La Croix Boissée”
Bernard Baudry France | Loire
2020 Vin de France Blanche
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire
2020 Bourgueil “Les Perrières”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2024 Quincy
Domaine Trotereau France | Loire
2024 Sancerre
Domaine Roger Neveu France | Loire
Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:
1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.
Inspiring Thirst, page 174