2016 Vouvray “Le Portail”Champalou
France | Loire
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If you ever make it to Corsica, don’t miss Bonifacio. The small town is perched up on a limestone cliff, which dangles over the sea. It looks like it could just chip off and splash in at any moment. When you visit, you may notice things feel a little different here than in the rest of Corsica. The architecture is unique, and the local dialect, bonifacien, is spoken only here, and only by a hundred or so people, given that for centuries the town was cloistered behind tall walls and cut off from the rest of the island. The ground here is different, too. Corsica is often called “the granite rock,” yet in Bonifacio we are on pure limestone. This biancu—chiseled, precise, floral, and salty—is the work of twenty-plus years of patience and planning by Canarelli to replant native grapes where the town’s vineyards had lain fallow for more than a century. Truly the land of Canarelli’s dreams, his Tarra di Sognu, as they say in Bonifacio.
|Blend:||80% Vermentinu, 20% Riminese, Biancu Gentile, Genovese, Carcaghjolu Biancu|
|Appellation:||Vin de France|
|Vineyard:||3 ha, planted in 2013|
Great winemakers, great terroirs, there is never any hurry. And I no longer buy into this idea of “peak” maturity. Great winemakers, great terroirs, their wines offer different pleasures at different ages.
Inspiring Thirst, page 312
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