2022 ChevernyDomaine du Salvard
France | Loire
$22
Producers
If you ever make it to Corsica, don’t miss Bonifacio. The small town is perched up on a limestone cliff, which dangles over the sea. It looks like it could just chip off and splash in at any moment. When you visit, you may notice things feel a little different here than in the rest of Corsica. The architecture is unique, and the local dialect, bonifacien, is spoken only here, and only by a hundred or so people, given that for centuries the town was cloistered behind tall walls and cut off from the rest of the island. The ground here is different, too. Corsica is often called “the granite rock,” yet in Bonifacio we are on pure limestone. This biancu—chiseled, precise, floral, and salty—is the work of twenty-plus years of patience and planning by Canarelli to replant native grapes where the town’s vineyards had lain fallow for more than a century. Truly the land of Canarelli’s dreams, his Tarra di Sognu, as they say in Bonifacio.
—Chris Santini
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2018 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | 80% Vermentinu, 20% Riminese, Biancu Gentile, Genovese, Carcaghjolu Biancu |
Appellation: | Vin de France |
Country: | France |
Region: | Corsica |
Producer: | Clos Canarelli |
Vineyard: | 3 ha, planted in 2013 |
Soil: | Limestone, Chalk |
Farming: | Biodynamic (certified) |
Alcohol: | 13.5% |
Clos Canarelli France | Corsica | Corse Figari
Clos Canarelli France | Corsica
Clos Canarelli France | Corsica | Corse Figari
Clos Canarelli France | Corsica | Corse Figari
Clos Canarelli France | Corsica
I first set foot on the island in 1980. I remember looking down from the airplane window seeing alpine forest and lakes and thinking, uh oh, I got on the wrong plane. Then suddenly I was looking down into the beautiful waters of the Mediterranean. Corsica is a small, impossibly tall island, the tail of the Alp chain rising out of the blue sea.—Kermit Lynch
Kermit’s first trip to the island proved fruitful, with his discovery of Clos Nicrosi’s Vermentino. More than thirty years later, the love affair with Corsica has only grown as we now import wines from ten domaines that cover the north, south, east, and west of what the French affectionately refer to as l’Île de Beauté.
Corsica is currently experiencing somewhat of a renaissance—interest has never been higher in the wines and much of this is due to growers focusing on indigenous and historical grapes found on the island. Niellucciu, Sciarcarellu, and Vermentinu are widely planted but it is now common to find bottlings of Biancu Gentile and Carcaghjolu Neru as well as blends with native varieties like Rossola Bianca, Minustellu, or Montaneccia.
As Kermit described above, Corsica has a strikingly mountainous landscape. The granite peaks top out above 9,000 feet. The terroir is predominantly granite with the exception of the Patrimonio appellation in the north, which has limestone, clay, and schist soils.The wines, much like their southern French counterparts make for great pairings with the local charcuterie, often made from Nustrale, the native wild boar, as well as Brocciu, the Corsican goats milk cheese that is best served within 48 hours of it being made.
Antoine-Marie Arena France | Corsica | Vin de France
Yves Leccia France | Corsica | Patrimonio
Domaine Comte Abbatucci France | Corsica | Vin de France
Yves Leccia France | Corsica | Vin de Pays de l’Île de Beauté
Antoine-Marie Arena France | Corsica
Jean-Baptiste Arena France | Corsica | Vin de France
Domaine de Marquiliani France | Corsica
Domaine de Marquiliani France | Corsica
Domaine Giacometti France | Corsica | Patrimonio
Antoine Arena France | Corsica | Muscat du Cap Corse
Antoine-Marie Arena France | Corsica | Patrimonio
Yves Leccia France | Corsica | Patrimonio
I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
Inspiring Thirst, page 171
Drinking distilled spirits, beer, coolers, wine and other alcoholic beverages may increase cancer risk, and, during pregnancy, can cause birth defects. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/alcohol
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