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2017 Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil “Irène”
Domaine de la ChanteleuserieThe siege is over at last. After years of asking Thierry and Christine Boucard for their lone cuvée from Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, they have finally sent us a small shipment. You might have two questions: Why not until now? And what makes their Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil wine different from their Bourgueil bottlings?
To answer the first: the appetite in France for great wines from the Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil appellation has been ravenous and the Boucards have made just enough of this wine to satisfy their compatriots. Besides, they have kept us more than happy with their Bourgueil AOC cuvées, some of the most dependable and delicious values we import, so we couldn’t really complain. Which brings me to answer the second question: what’s different about this wine?
Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil lies just to the west of Bourgueil, home to the rest of the Boucards’ wines, all made from Cabernet Franc. The Bourgueil “Beauvais” comes from a clay-and-limestone terroir that is seen as an unofficial grand cru by the local producers. It is the most structured and built for the (very) long haul. The Bourgueil “Alouettes,” meanwhile, with its bright red fruit and soft tannins, screams “dangerously downable bistro wine!”
Our new cuvée, the Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil “Irène”, comes from 30-year-old vines in sandy gravel and achieves an irresistible balance between the two Bourgueils. With blackberries, blueberries, graphite, and pine rising seductively from the glass, it has the inherent charm to drink beautifully on its own, but it also has the spine and finesse to stand up to roast meats, braises, stews, and grilled vegetables. A dual threat, in other words.
If you want to experience the evolution of this outstanding value, I suggest getting six bottles or a case to enjoy its progress over the next three years. You’ll be amazed by what’s in your glass and what you paid for it.
—Tom Wolf
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2017 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Cabernet Franc |
Appellation: | Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil |
Country: | France |
Region: | Loire |
Producer: | Domaine de la Chanteleuserie |
Vineyard: | 3 ha, 30 years old |
Soil: | Sand, gravel |
Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
Alcohol: | 13% |
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About The Producer
Domaine de la Chanteleuserie
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmderidgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
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2016 Chinon “Les Petites Roches” MAGNUM
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2020 Vouvray “Pierres Rousses”
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2019 Saumur Blanc “L’Insolite”
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2020 Vouvray “La Dilettante”
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2018 Chinon Blanc “Clos de la Plante Martin”
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2018 Vin de France Rouge Grolleau/Cabernet Franc
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2022 Sancerre
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2020 Chinon “La Croix Boissée”
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2022 Anjou Rouge “Clos de la Cerisaie”
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Vintage Chart Mentality
Vintage Chart Mentality
Trust the great winemakers, trust the great vineyards. Your wine merchant might even be trustworthy. In the long run, that vintage strip may be the least important guide to quality on your bottle of wine.—Kermit Lynch