2015 Puligny-Montrachet “Les Chalumaux”Comtesse de Chérisey
France | Burgundy
$120
Producers
Although Catherine and Pierre Breton are known primarily for their Cabernet Francs from Bourgueil and Chinon, they also craft a sparkler as well as a few whites from Catherine’s home AOC, Vouvray. In 2002, about a decade and a half after they began making reds, Catherine turned to her parents’ domaine to source the Chenin Blanc grapes for these newer bottlings. Today, Catherine and Pierre are joined by their daughter, France, and son, Paul, who shows a particular interest in the white wines. Reflecting the at times dramatic vintage variation of this slice of the Loire Valley, the Bretons’ Vouvrays are incredibly transparent vintage after vintage. In some years—2016, for example— La Dilettante canbe slightly tendre, even while retaining a sturdy spine of acidity and minerality. This 2017, by contrast, is dry, floral, and all lean muscle, with notes of pear, green apple, and Meyer lemon. Delicate, precise, and succulent at the same time, this beautiful blanc will pair well with fresh seafood and light summer salads and pastas.
—Tom Wolf
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2017 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Chenin Blanc |
Appellation: | Vouvray |
Country: | France |
Region: | Loire |
Producer: | Catherine & Pierre Breton |
Winemaker: | Catherine & Pierre Breton |
Vineyard: | 40 years, 5 ha |
Soil: | Clay, Limestone |
Aging: | There is no maloactic fermentation and the wine is bottled in the spring following harvest |
Farming: | Organic (certified) |
Alcohol: | 13% |
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire | Bourgueil
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire | Bourgueil
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire | Bourgueil
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire | Bourgueil
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire | Bourgueil
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire | Bourgueil
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmderidgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire | Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
Éric Chevalier France | Loire | Vin de Pays du Val de Loire
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur Champigny
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire | Muscadet
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur Champigny
Éric Chevalier France | Loire | Vin de Pays du Val de Loire
Daniel Chotard France | Loire | Sancerre
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur-Champigny
Charles Joguet France | Loire | Chinon
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur Champigny
Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
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