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2017 Chablis
“Les Truffières”
Henri Costal
Les Truffières was the first Kermit Lynch wine I ever tasted, back at Cloverleaf Fine Wine in Royal Oak, Michigan, and it spurred my incredible journey into the world of wine. At the time, I was heavily into craft beer and could hardly discern a Chardonnay from a Sauvignon Blanc, let alone the subtle differences within a wine region. But in that moment, this Chablis taught me the importance of terroir and how wines must be true to their sense of place. As we watch many wines of the world trend toward uniformity, sterility, and safety, Les Truffières seems fearlessly authentic. While its steely minerality and focused acidity are expected in any good Chablis, the subtle hint of black truffle and the waxy texture clearly reveal this wine’s unique sense of place.
—Will Meinberg
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2017 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Chardonnay |
Appellation: | Chablis |
Country: | France |
Region: | Burgundy |
Producer: | Domaine Costal |
Winemaker: | Gilles & Romain Collet |
Vineyard: | 20 years, 1.26 ha |
Soil: | Limestone |
Aging: | After being raised in stainless steel for 10 months, wine spends 3 months in demi-muid barrels (600-L) |
Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
Alcohol: | 12.5% |
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About The Producer
Domaine Costal
About The Region
Burgundy
In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.
Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.
To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.
Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.
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Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:
1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.
Inspiring Thirst, page 174