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Rosé has become so fashionable it’s almost a brand, but as with any other wine, there is tremendous variation in style and quality based on production zone, the grape varieties involved, farming, and, crucially, winemaking. For all the carefree pleasure and refreshment rosé provides, remember that it can also be a serious wine that expresses a sense of place. Terrebrune’s Bandol epitomizes this idea of a terroir-driven rosé, from the nose of thyme and white peach, redolent of a Provençal summer, to its mouthwateringly salty finish, a reminder that the sea is just a stone’s throw away. For conclusive evidence that this is no ordinary rosé, save a bottle for five, ten, or twenty years—a pleasant surprise awaits.
|Blend:||50% Mourvèdre, 25% Grenache, 25% Cinsault|
|Producer:||Domaine de Terrebrune|
|Soil:||Limestone pebbles in brown clay, blue limestone bedrock, marl|
|Aging:||Ages for 6-8 months in barrel before bottling|
Trust the great winemakers, trust the great vineyards. Your wine merchant might even be trustworthy. In the long run, that vintage strip may be the least important guide to quality on your bottle of wine.—Kermit Lynch