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2015 Alpilles Blanc “Dolia”

Domaine Hauvette
Discount Eligible $62.00
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Dominique Hauvette is a rare breed: intensely stern, unyielding in her convictions, and at times cynical, she is not the jolly Provençal character we are accustomed to from Occitan folklore. Her wines, in turn, are made via singular methods, without artifice, and cannot be compared to anything else in the region—or, for that matter, anywhere in France. To better understand this talented renegade, who has farmed the limestone-heavy soils near Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, in the shadow of the Alpilles mountain range, since the early 1980s, sample a bottle of this mind-bending white. A blend of Marsanne, Clairette, and Roussanne raised in concrete eggs, Dolia will take your nose and palate for a ride. Smoke, wildflower honey, gunflint, and quince feature in this fleshy, sturdy masterpiece. The finish, reminiscent of pure stone, is as decisively firm as Dominique herself, but fear not—both are quite lovable once you get to know them.

Anthony Lynch


Technical Information
Wine Type: white
Vintage: 2015
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: 1/3 Roussanne , 1/3 Marsanne, and 1/3 Clairette
Appellation: IGP Alpilles
Country: France
Region: Provence
Producer: Domaine Hauvette
Winemaker: Dominique Hauvette
Vineyard: 23 years, .7 ha
Soil: Clay, Limestone
Aging: Aged in cement eggs
Farming: Biodynamic (practicing)
Alcohol: 13%

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About The Region

Provence

map of Provence

There is perhaps no region more closely aligned with the history of Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant than Provence. While Kermit began his career as a Burgundy specialist, he soon fell in love with Provence and its wines, notably the legendary Bandols of Domaine Tempier, which he began importing in 1977. He later began living in the area part-time, returning frequently between tasting trips, and today he spends most of his time at his home just outside of Bandol.

Provence is thought to be France’s most ancient wine region, established when Greek settlers landed in the modern-day port city of Marseille in the 6th century BC. The conditions here are ideal for cultivation of the grapevine, with a hot, dry climate and a prevalence of poor, rocky soils, primarily limestone-based, suitable for vines and not much else. The ever-present southern sunshine as well as the mistral, a cold, drying wind from the northwest that helps keep the vines free of disease, are crucial elements of Provençal terroir. Wild herbs from the pervasive scrubland, called garrigue, and cooling saline breezes from the Mediterranean also contribute to the quality and character of wines in all three colors.

Provence is well known for its rosés, but red wines have always held importance here. The very best, such as those from Bandol, possess great depth and a capacity for long-term aging. The white wines, notably those of Cassis, offer weight balanced by a maritime freshness, making them ideal pairings for the local seafood. Mourvèdre reigns king for red grapes, supported mainly by Grenache and Cinsault, while Clairette, Marsanne, Rolle, and Ugni Blanc are the region’s principal white grapes.

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Inspiring Thirst

A good doctor prescribed the wine of Nuits-Saint-Georges to the Sun King, Louis XIV, when he suffered an unknown maladie. When the king’s health was restored the tasty remedy enjoyed a vogue at court. Lord, send me a doctor like that!

Inspiring Thirst, page 117