2019 Vin de France Muscatellu “Morta Maió” Non MutéAntoine-Marie Arena
France | Corsica
$57
Producers
by Dixon Brooke
Irancy is one of the two great (greater and greater, I might add) northern Burgundian outposts for Pinot Noir, the other being Epineuil. These wine villages straddle Chablis, the northern bastion for Chardonnay, with Epineuil to the northeast and Irancy to the southwest, near the town of Auxerre. The small appellation of Irancy is composed of less than two hundred hectares of vines planted on a large, southern-facing amphitheater of clay and iron-rich Kimmeridgean limestone soils, where the Pinot ripens consistently well. Along with Sancerre, this village has historically kept the bistros of Paris well stocked with Pinot Noir for everyday drinking.
Seemingly untouched by the pomp and circumstance of much of the Côte d’Or farther south, this charming Burgundian town comprised of a handful of vigneron families continues to follow its daily rhythms that have been far less impacted by the passage of time. This certainly appears to be true in the Cantin cellars, where two generations of the family recently welcomed me on a cool late autumn day to taste through their production in barrel, tank, and bottle. The entire experience, punctuated by old vintages brought out at the end of the tasting along with a wooden board of tasty local specialties to munch on, felt like the Burgundy of yesteryear. The wines are decidedly old-school, offering a delightful stroll down memory lane. The Cantin family produces age-worthy Pinot Noir with depth, character, and soul, and we are excited to introduce them to you.
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