Domaine Leon Barral
Faugères
by Dixon Brooke
Didier Barral has been at the forefront of the movement to return to traditional methods of viticulture ever since he took over his family’s farm in Lenthéric, deep in the heart of the Faugères AOC in the Languedoc of southern France. His goal has always been to grow grapes so perfect that he would never need to use any foreign substance in winemaking, including sulfur. This new vintage may represent the pinnacle of his achievement. Most of the techniques that are still rolling out and being extolled in natural wine circles across Europe were invented or resurrected, and perfected, on Didier’s farm.
2019 Faugères
France | Languedoc-Roussillon
Cinsault- and Carignan-based, this is the lightest and juiciest of Didier’s three rouge cuvées, with a velvety-soft mouthfeel. The soil in Faugères is all schist, favoring silky tannins.
2019 Faugères “Jadis”
France | Languedoc-Roussillon
Didier’s Syrah-based cuvée displays a significant step up in density and concentration from the last bottling. Chewy, meaty, spicy, full-bodied, and complex—nothing was left behind when he bottled this beauty unfiltered after two winters in barrel in his icy stone cellars.
2019 Faugères “Valinière”
France | Languedoc-Roussillon
Mourvèdre is the starring grape in this show, a deep, dark, brooding, muscular wine that channels the greats of Bandol, along with notes of violet and white pepper that recall Hermitage, thanks to the northern-facing Syrah vineyard that contributes its fruit to this cuvée. Buy and age this one as you would a wine from Tempier or Clape.