What exactly is the essence of Bandol? As delicious as it may be, I would argue that it’s not the rosé, which has a long list of merits but, historically speaking, is a relatively modern addition to the range. It’s not the blanc, despite its lusciousness and perfume, since it is always only a minor player, its percentage of the appellation’s production countable on a single hand. I say the heart and soul of Bandol—which put it on the map and sent it sailing to shores around the world long ago, and in the 1940s inspired Lucien Peyraud to replant Domaine Tempier and begin a regional renaissance—is its aged reds.
           To this day, there is something truly remarkable and unique about a well-made and properly aged Bandol rouge, with its herbal notes, the classic dried rosemary and thyme of a hot Provençal hillside, and its mellowed tannins. The dark fruit of youth has become softer, while developing notes of tobacco and spice make the whole thing more elegant. In my experience of visiting and dining with our growers in Bandol, I’ve noticed that the festivities usually begin with a cold blanc, a great way to refresh the whistle, and then move on to the rosé, also served quite cold, and often in the rays of the sun to really set the mood. However, when it’s time to sit and eat, a series of aged rouges invariably comes to table, a way for the domaines to remind us of what is truly important here, and what is worthy of being at table with local fare, which (needless to say) has its own worldwide reputation.
            While this tradition is visibly alive and well locally, recreating it elsewhere is not always easy, as most of the reds are shipped around the world, sold, and consumed shortly upon release. Thankfully, Alain Pascal at Gros ’Noré likes to hold special vintages aside until he feels they are ready to offer something more, something different and exciting. His most recent selection, fresh from the depths of his cellar, is a simultaneous release of both the 2012 and the 2013 reds. The 2012 is at peak, perfect for drinking now—open and elegant and a prime example of what Alain would bring to his table at a meal today. The 2013 is broader, powerful, right at that tipping point where ebullient notes of youth blend with the more subtle aspects of age. Thank you, Alain, for giving us a rare opportunity to experience the essence of Bandol in our own homes.