Tuscan Sangiovese at its Peak
by Anthony Lynch
Colleoni
Italy | Tuscany | Brunello di Montalcino
Instead of tilling his vineyards like most growers do, Marino Colleoni “crimps” the wild vegetation, flattening it to create a natural ground cover all while preserving soil structure. This practice is increasingly common among forward-thinking farmers in dry regions, but what sets Marino apart from the rest is that he does it all by hand—or, rather, by foot: he walks through each row, stepping on every blade of grass to create a thick mat that will protect the soil through the hot summer. This might seem onerous for something that could much more quickly be achieved on a tractor, but it is one of many details that make Marino such an incredibly thoughtful, compassionate vignaiolo. There is intention with every step he takes—literally—culminating in finessed Brunello brimming with purity and fresh energy. From a cool site at high elevation, his Santa Maria Riserva exudes the gentle touch proper to this Montalcino artisan, with a seductive aroma of rose petals.
Podere Campriano
Italy | Tuscany | Chianti Classico Riserva
The Lapini family makes Chianti in the town of Greve, where they also teach cooking classes and run a small bed-and-breakfast. Their hospitality is about as genuine and kindhearted as it comes, centered around sharing thirst-quenching Chianti Classico and rustic, regional home cooking. Their wines are not intense or meditative—just like their makers, they are generous, jovial, and easygoing. The Riserva embodies these traits through the lens of a vineyard that feels lost in nature, surrounded by woodland in a quaint valley looking up at the ancient village of Montefioralle. Fragrant notes of Tuscan herbs, forest floor, and brambles define this five-year-old Sangiovese, possibly the perfect comfort wine for a homemade plate of pasta.
Instead of tilling his vineyards like most growers do, Marino Colleoni “crimps” the wild vegetation, flattening it to create a natural ground cover all while preserving soil structure. This practice is increasingly common among forward-thinking farmers in dry regions, but what sets Marino apart from the rest is that he does it all by hand—or, rather, by foot: he walks through each row, stepping on every blade of grass to create a thick mat that will protect the soil through the hot summer. This might seem onerous for something that could much more quickly be achieved on a tractor, but it is one of many details that make Marino such an incredibly thoughtful, compassionate vignaiolo. There is intention with every step he takes—literally—culminating in finessed Brunello brimming with purity and fresh energy. From a cool site at high elevation, his Santa Maria Riserva exudes the gentle touch proper to this Montalcino artisan, with a seductive aroma of rose petals.
The Lapini family makes Chianti in the town of Greve, where they also teach cooking classes and run a small bed-and-breakfast. Their hospitality is about as genuine and kindhearted as it comes, centered around sharing thirst-quenching Chianti Classico and rustic, regional home cooking. Their wines are not intense or meditative—just like their makers, they are generous, jovial, and easygoing. The Riserva embodies these traits through the lens of a vineyard that feels lost in nature, surrounded by woodland in a quaint valley looking up at the ancient village of Montefioralle. Fragrant notes of Tuscan herbs, forest floor, and brambles define this five-year-old Sangiovese, possibly the perfect comfort wine for a homemade plate of pasta.
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