Three Ways to Rosé
by Allyson Noman
They say there are many paths to God, and I say the same is true of rosé. It’s certainly become an exalted cultural phenomenon, and for good reason. Whether you’re in search of something ethereal, light, grand, dignified, or simply seeking joy, a rosé exists for you. For devotees and curious skeptics alike, the three very different bottles below—one classic, and two that toe opposing lines—are all excellent standards of practice.
2024 Bandol Rosé
France | Provence
Leave it to boxer-turned-vigneron Alain Pascal to transform Bandol’s muscular Mourvèdre into a featherweight wine. I’ve been in a match of sorts myself over the last few weeks, moving for the second time in less than a year, and after a particularly lengthy day I opened this bottle as a remedy. Delicate, supple, easy to drink…it rose to the occasion without being fussy, imparting a level of comfort and relief that felt like having my own personal cut-man.
2024 Reuilly Pinot Gris Rosé
France | Loire
I love a wine that sparks debate, and this one can get heated: is it rosé, as its hue suggests? Orange, owing to its brief skin contact? Pinot Gris is in rare form here—notes of elderflower, grassiness, and honeysuckle turned silky and sheer. Rosé, orange, or perhaps a gray area (pun intended) in between…whatever it is, it’s delicious.
2024 Tavel Rosé
France | Southern Rhône
This dark and vinous iteration from the southern Rhône commands the stage with its hearty presence. Ripe red berries and fine tannin make this Tavel an ideal match for a bistro burger with fries or a charcuterie and cheese plate. In terms of food pairings, you might look to this as you usually would a quaffable rouge from nearby (see our Côtes du Rhône Villages on page 5), but there’s a sheen and shimmer both in the glass and on the palate that sets it squarely in its own denomination.