A recent visit to Guido Porro’s cellar in Serralunga d’Alba confirmed my speculation that this humble, reserved vignaiolo has taken the small family farm and turned it into one of the great traditionalist estates of Barolo. Not much has changed here since Guido, the fourth generation of Porros to make wine in Serralunga, took over from his father in 1996. The wisdom passed down from his ancestors guides his approach to viticulture, and he still ages his Baroli extensively in huge old Slavonian oak casks. The only real changes of late have been the acquisition of a prime slice of Serralunga’s most legendary cru, Vigna Rionda (inquire about availability), the decision to revert to the estate’s magnificent historic label design, and the increasing presence in the cellar of Guido’s passionate twenty-year-old son, Fabio. Given their excellent vineyard holdings and steady adherence to classical vinification methods, it is safe to say the Porros and their wines will be around for a long time to satisfy our thirst for Piedmont’s fabled Nebbiolos.
     The majority of Guido’s production comes from the Lazzarito cru, a steep slope that abuts the Porro cantina at its highest point. Two distinct Baroli originate here, differentiated by their unique exposure and elevation: the lower-slope Lazzairasco, which yields a mouth-filling, authoritative Barolo with trademark Serralunga tannins and extensive cellaring potential, and the slightly higher, less-exposed Santa Caterina, which gives a more delicate, high-toned, floral expression of Nebbiolo that nonetheless features a tightly wound core and has a great track record of aging. Gianetto, a more recent addition to the lineup, sits opposite the Lazzarito hillside; the young vines here impart less structure but plenty of approachability and pleasure for the near term.
     As far as the three vintages offered here are concerned, both the 2015 and the 2014 will provide early-drinking charm: the 2015 conveying a plump, fruit-driven ripeness, with the 2014 leaner, earthier, and spicier. The 2013, by contrast, is built for the cellar—a “classic” Barolo vintage if there ever was one, it will uncoil slowly over many years.
     Last, but certainly not least, we cannot forget to mention Guido’s Dolcetto and Barbera. Fresh, juicy, and incredibly food-friendly, these authentic and expressive reds offer a delicious glimpse at this Piemontese maestro’s work at bargain cost.

Through Monday, March 30th, 25% off Guido Porro Barolos listed below.