Piemontese Reds
by Jane Augustine
2019 Barbaresco “Vicenziana”
Italy | Piedmont
Time stands still in the tiny cellar of Silvio Giamello. He and his wife, Marina, are soft-spoken and discreet, but they will graciously invite you in to sample their minuscule production. Vicenziana is a gorgeous old-vine Barbaresco with an intoxicating perfume that rises from the glass. One of our most elegant and inviting Piemontese reds, it features delicate layers of black cherry, cracked pepper, and soft leather. Take your time with this wine; there’s so little of it produced that any occasion to enjoy a bottle should be relished.
2021 Monferrato Rosso
Italy | Piedmont
If you’ve ever dreamed of moving to Italy and opening your own agriturismo or small-town trattoria, you’ve probably imagined the wine you would serve at lunch alongside your saucy tagliatelle ai funghi or tender prosciutto crudo. You want something juicy, versatile, and joyous: a red with some good acidity to complement your simple home cooking and just enough tannic spine to stand up to the dishes on your table. It needs to be light and vibrant enough to leave you with postprandial energy. You just might not have known precisely which bottle from which region it would be. Well, here it is: a Piemontese red made mostly from Barbera and its supporting cast of Bonarda, Dolcetto, and Freisa, grown in sand and limestone soils around the picturesque hillside town of Cisterna d’Asti. In contrast to the exalted Baroli made to the south, Tenuta La Pergola specializes in the humbler side of Piedmont’s wine culture, which can be every bit as satisfying. The azienda’s Monferrato Rosso is the quintessential house wine, whether it’s my apartment in the Bay Area or your future casa in Italia. It is the red to always have on hand.
2015 Barolo Riserva “Cascina Dardi - Bussia”
Italy | Piedmont
Even with eight years of age, this plush Barolo from the Bussia cru in Monforte d’Alba is as striking and youthful as it’s ever been. Hints of toasty tobacco, violet, and roasted fig will draw you in, while the bottling’s energy and vigor will hold your attention. Raised in large Slavonian oak casks, this is one of the grander, more assertive Baroli we import. It’s a Barolo lover’s dream for a winter stew, or a candidate for serious aging.