Piedmont Reds
by Tom Wolf
2021 Rosso dei Dardi
Alessandro e Gian Natale Fantino
Italy | Piedmont
A famously fickle variety, whose perfect balance of acidity and ripeness is hard to achieve, Nebbiolo is also known to be one of the world’s most tannic grapes, making it especially difficult to coax into a charming and exuberant young wine. Alessandro and Gian Natale have done just this, preserving Nebbiolo’s bright acidity and beautiful aromas of rose petals and crushed cherries, but delivering them through an approachable red that would pair beautifully with a mushroom or braised-pork polenta.
2021 Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba “Sörì Cristina”
Italy | Piedmont
The reason Paolo Olivero’s Dolcetto is so exceptional is that it comes from one of the best growing sites for Dolcetto in the region, a high-elevation, sunny hilltop in the commune of Diano in the Barolo DOCG. Crisp red fruit and a peppery violet perfume come together in this hydrating and grippy rosso, which would match with anything from red sauce dishes to tender grilled meats.
2019 Barolo “Le Coste di Monforte”
Italy | Piedmont
I recently sat with Massimo Benevelli at a belated KLWM 50th anniversary celebration, where several aged bottles emerged from Kermit’s cellar. When one of Massimo’s 2014 Baroli was poured, he seemed slightly anxious at first. It was not, he told me, an easy year in the region. But as we sniffed and tasted it, he relaxed and smiled. The wine was spectacular—as my colleagues and I knew it would be because, like all great producers, Benevelli is able to consistently make great reds even in challenging vintages. Vintage 2019 was much more favorable in Barolo, and while charming now, Le Coste di Monforte will reward you for many years to come.