Northern Italian Whites
by Anthony Lynch
2020 Sauvignon dell’Alto Adige “Voglar”
Italy | Alto Adige
This Alpine white spends several months resting in large acacia casks, where it sheds any overtly varietal notes and instead comes to manifest the nuances of the breathtaking site where the fruit is grown. Dipoli picked a spectacular hillside high in the Dolomites to plant his Sauvignon vines, and the combination of this otherworldly terroir with a unique aging regimen yields a rendition of this grape unlike any other. Coursing with energy, it is akin to a lightning bolt of ripe citrus, fleshy yellow fruit, and gunflint that will make for a thrilling drink throughout the next decade.
2020 Malvasia Istriana
Italy | Friuli
The white wines of Friuli’s Carso region, grown on a wind-battered plateau overlooking the Adriatic city of Trieste, remind me of Chablis in that it’s easy to forget the grape variety when there is such a strong soil signature. In this bottling from Friuli all-star Edi Kante, Malvasia Istriana’s trademark notes of white pepper and aromatic herbs take a back seat to the purity and precision conferred by its cool, stony terroir. You may also find subtle hints of orange blossom, a whisper of lemon oil, and a creamy note punctuated by a salinity that will make you salivate. This wine is designed for simply prepared seafood, but you’ll have trouble finding a better partner for warm Castelvetrano olives marinated with citrus zest and herbs.