New Italian Classics
by Jane Augustine
2023 Valli Ossolane Nebbiolo Superiore “Prünent”
Italy | Piedmont
The most recognizable word on this wine’s label is Nebbiolo, but don’t let that give you any ideas—this red is not like others you’ve tasted. We’re technically still in Piedmont at Cantine Garrone, but it’s “Alto” Piemonte, over two hours away from Barolo country, near the Swiss border. The local term for Nebbiolo is Prünent, and after one sip, you’ll see why the distinction makes sense. The Garrone wines bring to mind all sorts of Alpine freshness—this one is vibrant, high-toned, and lengthy, with fragrant, velvety fruit that will make your eyes widen with pleasure. There’s a hint of smoke, a whiff of earth, and more to uncover over the duration of a long meal. I paired it with a chimichurri-marinated steak and rosemary-roasted potatoes, but for a future meal, I might try seared sausages and braised cabbage. At your table, as long as you choose something robust that won’t buckle under the intensity of a firm, confident wine, you’ll nail it.
2024 Erbaluce di Caluso “Le Chiusure”
Italy | Piedmont
I was surprised to read that Erbaluce likely shares its origins with the Clairette grape, but then again, I haven’t tasted many varietal Clairettes. In France, the grape is usually blended with others to give it interest, but in this part of Piedmont, Favaro’s Erbaluce di Caluso not only holds its own, it also makes a case for being one of the finest white wines in the region. Luce, of course, means light, and as my colleague Joanie put it so eloquently, “these beautiful golden grapes, which tend toward a rosy blush when ripe, light up the vineyards under their pergolas like little lanterns.” I would go even further and call this wine luminous, and I don’t think that’s just the power of suggestion. It is also racy, dialed-up, and chalky, so if these qualities appeal to you, you may fall hard for it. It is a stunning discovery and a strong candidate for the hall of fame of great whites we import.