Great Italian Values
by Jane Augustine
Prosecco Superiore Brut
Italy | Veneto
It takes practice to master pronouncing the name of this superior part of the Prosecco region, “val-dobe-YAH-den-ay.” While the appellation’s moniker won’t roll off your tongue, this delicious bottling—with its fine bead, pear-scented fruit, and playful acidity—most certainly will! More than just a crowd pleaser, Sommariva’s traditional and truly exceptional Prosecco is a classic choice to place in the hand of a just-arrived guest, to accompany a piece of pie, to top off a cocktail, or to use whenever sparkling wine is called for. Albeit versatile, it shines for what it is: a perfect glass of bubbly dry Prosecco.
2022 Custoza “Greoto”
Italy | Veneto
On a freezing-cold afternoon in New York, I opened Corte Gardoni’s Custoza and had a thought about wintertime whites. Greoto, a blend of several local Venetian varieties, is not a bracing wine. Instead, it has a grapey quality, with summer fruits such as white strawberry and peach. Like a glimmer of sunshine on a gray day, it relieved the chill in my bones and left me charmed. A more high-toned or racy white would not have compared for such icy weather. As the days went on, every glass I enjoyed got better and better—a touch of honey here, a glimpse of bitter almond there. I’ll be keeping this bianco in rotation all season.
2022 Vino Rosso “Il Goccetto”
Italy | Piedmont
La Pergola’s Goccetto is an unpretentious, hydrating little red with a fragrant, rosy perfume of bone-dry Brachetto and Barbera. A hint of bitterness adds dimension and bite to what is otherwise a delicate, light-bodied wine. I love it for pasta night. Pair it with anything from spicy sausage and broccoli rabe orecchiette to the most pared-back tomato sauce—try Marcella Hazan’s—which epitomizes a simple meal and begs to be enjoyed with a thirst-quenching rosso like this one. Without much tannin, this “little nip” is silky, finessed, and loaded with freshness.